White Molasses: Flor de Cana Extra Dry; Doorly’s White; El Dorado 3 Years Old Superior White; Botran Reserva Blanca; Smatt’s Silver Rum; Worthy Park Rum Bar White Overproof
Let's continue tasting white rums, but this time with molasses rums. They are known for being much lighter than pure juice rums, but probably also easier to access, smoother and flattering, making them generally a favorite ingredient for cocktails. They are therefore not, a priori, rums to be enjoyed pure, but since the bet (and my preference) is to enjoy the rums as is, please remember this when reading these lines.
It should also be emphasized that many white molasses rums are actually aged for a few years before being filtered through charcoal to give them a crystalline color . A fact that is rarely emphasized (and for good reason), the main distilleries (but not all, fortunately) simply cannot provide a very aromatic natural white rum: distilled beyond 94% via multiple columns, the rum that comes out is often very pure, not to say neutral, hence the aging before filtration. Some others manage to provide better rums without going through the aging process.
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Flor de Cana Extra Dry / 40°
A white rum from Nicaragua, extra dry therefore, of…4 years. There is surely a better way to start a session on molasses whites, but since many of them are filtered…
Crystalline and very oily.
On the nose, it opens with quite present notes of alcohol. Extra dry is the right term, but once you get past the volatile notes of alcohol, you find banana peel, notes of caramel, and something earthy and herbaceous. It is far from being very complex, and one would expect a little more for a 4-year-old white (yes, I know it is strange, even to write), than predominant notes of alcohol.
On the palate, it is slightly oily, honeyed, on a mixture of alcohol and herbs, spices and citrus zest with a hint of acidity. Coconut and sugar follow. The finish is also extra dry with vaporous notes of alcohol.
Definitely a cocktail rum, but definitely not one to try neat. Rating: 47
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Doorly white / 40°
Another filtered rum to give it a crystalline color and attract cocktail lovers. This one comes to us from Richard Seale, and is 3 years old… Nothing but translucent, and an oily rum On the nose, it is fruity and quite dry, on white-fleshed fruits: tart apple and pear, still green banana. On citrus fruits (lemon zest), quite simple but with aromas. The nose evolves on a caramelized coconut. On the palate it is honeyed, still dry with a rather homogeneous mixture of fruits (the same), herbs and sugar (sugar cane) . The appearance in the mouth is rather pleasant and gourmet, and evolves on a spicy profile in the mouth, and on a slightly toasted coconut. The finish is average and persistent on these same notes.
Still not a white as we understand it, but not bad at all, with already potential and a definite foretaste of the rest of the range. Note: 76
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El Dorado Superior White / 37.5°
A white rum aged 3 years and double filtered with natural charcoal to obtain "a great purity that expresses a beautiful sweetness on the palate". Let's hope that by purity, it is not alcohol.
On the nose, this rum first brings out woody scents, especially fresh sawdust or pencil peel. Add brown sugar, nuts, citrus (zest) and a little coconut. Quite simple, it lacks concentration.
On the palate it is very soft, very slightly oily, on brown sugar, molasses, vanilla nuts and zan. The 37.5° are clearly felt, and with them questions about the use of this rum… too weak to drink as is, and too weak also for cocktails? The finish is fast, let's say stringy and dry, with once again this zan and this sugar which predominate.
A rum that lacks quite a few things, starting with more alcohol to be able to give it a use; it remains sweet and therefore quite easy in the end. Note: 67
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Botran Reserva Blanca / 40°
A South American rum (from Guatemala) first aged in the solera system before being filtered to produce a white rum.
The rum is very fruity and vanilla, opulent, and offers a lot of indulgence from the start. It is very pleasant, full of exoticism, on coconut, peach jelly candy, Haribo banana, dried apricot, as if jammy and very pleasant, with a vaporous veil of alcohol that tickles the nostrils.
On the palate, the attack is very soft, oily on the zan candy, a caramelized woodiness, vanilla, fruit candies; a sweet and gourmet profile, just raised by a nascent woodiness and caramelized spices (cinnamon). A rather pleasant rum that is sufficient in itself (to drink without any particular addition). The finish is average and dry, but will call for another glass.
As easy and delicious as the older expressions, this rum will please solera lovers, and can even be drunk as is (and especially without sugar), preferably chilled, and in moderation. Note: 74
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Smatt's Silver rum / 40°
A "super premium" white rum from Jamaica, but what else? According to the producer, it is a blend of column and still rum, made in the purest Jamaican tradition. Also available in a gold version. And no mention of filtering, so a real white rum (meaning without aging).
This rum offers a powerful and rather concentrated nose; With lots of fruit, exoticism (very ripe banana, coconut) which blends harmoniously with aromas of copper (metallic), vanilla, and a touch of caramel. The banana clearly comes out with rest, for a pleasant and natural nose.
On the palate, it is oily and rather sweet; still on the exotic (broken, very ripe) with a banana that becomes caramelized and vanilla, very "dessert" but without nausea. Slightly chocolatey, the finish is moderately long, once again on vanilla and banana, and some spices that warm the throat (cinnamon).
A decidedly exotic and very pleasant rum, with a natural appearance and refreshing balance. Rating: 80
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Worthy Park Rum Bar / 65°
Another Jamaican rum, and another white rum without aging. And even more, this one is offered at a level of 65 and offers a 100% pot still rum (which remains quite unique).
A powerful, offbeat, monstrous nose? on a heavy cane left abandoned for a century, on notes of olive and artichoke, earth, decomposed (not to say rotten) exotic fruits and glue. The rest brings very pleasant fruity notes (mango, citrus), and the alcohol content is wonderful.
The palate is powerfully concentrated and relatively smooth, and once again quite 'easy' for the degree; initially exotic and sweet, it then becomes earthy and spicy, then acidic (citrus) and salty. It's all there, and it's all concentrated in a honeyed and sticky whole. The finish is endless, accentuated by the high degree, and reminds us in a flash of the entire past tasting, between fruity, heavy, earthy and refreshing aromas.
A Jamaican white to be placed alongside the other two Worthy Parks: that of Rum Nation and those of Habitation Velier, with the 151 at the head of the line. Monsters, but monstrously good. Rating: 84
To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:
90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good
Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.
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