House Pour Champagnes Worth Talking About: How a Top Sommelier’s Vision Made Convivial Singapore’s First True Champagne Bar
It’s a jungle out there for solo wine drinkers.
I mean, how many times have you approached a promising wine list with a hopeful flutter in your chest, only to realise that your companions – bless their "I've work tomorrow" hearts – are unwilling to help you polish off an entire bottle? Too many times, I wager. It’s the tyranny of the teetotallers, a common plight for the budding wine lover I’d say!
And it's not the bar's fault, really. Wine, especially the really good stuff, doesn't last forever once opened. Most establishments don't move bottles quickly enough to justify cracking open a bottle as house pour if it wouldn’t be finished soon enough. And when you’re talking Champagnes and bubblies, the stakes are even higher. Those precious bubbles start their great escape the moment the cork is popped. Champagne also lacks the tannic backbone that helps slow oxidation, so without specialised preservation systems, a bottle can go flat before you’re done for the night. Finding a bar offering great Champagnes by the glass has been near impossible for this reason.
Which is precisely what makes Convivial Champagne Bar such a delightful anomaly. Convivial is Singapore’s first, and currently, only dedicated Champagne bar. What I love about Convivial is that it offers very respectable producers, including the cult favourite Egly-Ouriet (more on this later!), by the glass in a list of eight Champagnes and two still wines from the region. Sommelier-owner Yeo Xi Yang, or just Yang as he would introduce himself, is the mastermind behind this bubbly haven.
It all started, as these stories often do, with a passion.
Xi Yang cut his teeth as a junior sommelier at the renowned Les Amis where he first encountered some of the world’s most prized wines. One fateful evening, a bottle of Krug Vintage 1985 was opened. He brought the glass to his nose, and the world tilts. Brown butter, brioche, toasted hazelnuts. And then an expansive mouthfeel held in perfect tension by a crisp, vibrant acidity with a long and impressive finish. It was a revelation for Xi Yang, who asked, why more people weren't drinking this expression when it was a fraction of the price of top end wines? Champagne, he realised, was his calling.
Xi Yang continued down a path that would make him one of the most decorated sommeliers in the country. After Les Amis, he went on to serve as head sommelier at two Lo & Behold establishments before becoming Group Wine Director at Park90. The accolades followed: Best French Wine Sommelier twice, Best Sommelier of Singapore by the Sommelier Association Singapore… the list goes on. He became one of Singapore's youngest and most accomplished sommeliers and a respected voice in the industry.
But the memory of that Krug 1985, his Champagne epiphany, never faded. In 2022, Yang looked around and saw a gap. Singapore had amazing cocktail bars, incredible restaurants, but no dedicated bar that showcases the magic of Champagnes. So, he took a leap and struck out on his own to create the Champagne haven he’d always dreamed of. He called it Convivial.
Stepping into Convivial, you’re wrapped in a minimalist but tasteful ambience. Arched ceilings bathed in soft light that evoke the subterranean atmosphere of the crayères, those ancient, pristine white chalk cellars of Reims used by historic Champagne houses like Ruinart. Dining in Convivial feels like being in a modern-day extension of those very caves.
The vibe is intimate and casual with a gentle hum of conversation, a place where young couples spend a quiet evening, friends unwind after a workday, and solo drinkers like myself can finally indulge without feeling like we’re committing a vinous crime.
And of course, Convivial boasts one of the most extensive Champagne lists you’ll find in the region. We’re talking the best of the Grandes Marques – think Piper-Heidsieck “Rare” Brut Millésime, Salon “Cuvée S” Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, the legendary single-vineyard Krug “Clos du Mesnil” Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, the synonymous-with-luxury Louis Roederer Cristal, and the late-release, long-aged Dom Pérignon Oenothèque – alongside some of the most celebrated cult-favourite grower-producers. In fact, it was the rumour of Egly-Ouriet being available as a house pour that drew me to recently visit.
Here's a bit of background. Egly-Ouriet is, to many wine geeks, the holy grail of grower Champagne. This is the Champagne that serious fans crave, for it’s the pioneering producer that seriously rivalled the long-held dominance of the established Grandes Marques with its powerful, structured, Pinot Noir-forward Champagnes – even non-vintage expressions from Egly-Ouriet are held in very high regard.
So of course I asked for a glass of Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut which did not disappoint. Ripe and generous yellow orchard fruits on the nose, then predominantly apricots accompanied by a subtle dryness of citrus peel with rich brioche. On the palate, the entry was beautifully structured. Juicy, fleshy apricots were prominent, balanced by citrus notes, a slate-like minerality, and a touch of baking spices. It was incredibly compelling, one of the richest non-vintage Champagnes I’ve tasted, a masterful interplay between the rich, mature depths of stone fruit and the remarkable vibrancy of citrus and minerality.
For a contrast in style, I also sampled another renowned grower-producer as a house pour: André Clouet Grande Réserve Brut. On the nose, it was clean and bright, almost apple juice-like, with a touch of elderflower. The palate was bright, light, and easy-drinking, citrusy and crisp, with apple juice-like notes and a light minerality. It was refreshing and paired fantastically with the crisp Potato Hash sticks we ordered.
Speaking of food, the dinner menu at Convivial is excellent, ranging from classic charcuterie and duck rillettes to warm French dishes. But this is a Champagne bar, and the dishes seem specially planned to harmonise with the bubbly. The fried Potato Hash sticks – a cross between fries, hash browns and tempura – are a perfect example, pairing beautifully with the crisp, citrusy Champagnes.
The service at Convivial is warm and knowledgeable, and you may already know what I feel about owner-led bars. It’s also not surprising considering Xi Yang's formal training at renowned hospitality establishments. Though it’s more than just service; it's a genuine passion in Champagne that infuses the interactions here. Xi Yang has a gift for storytelling, effortlessly taking us through a virtual tour of the Champagne caves of Épernay, telling us narratives around each cuvée, each producer, each shimmering bubble. He's remarkably personable and creates a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere, making you feel as though his time and expertise are entirely at your disposal.
It’s great to see that the timeless drink of celebration finally has a dedicated home in Singapore. My visit and first experience with Egly-Ouriet was simply delightful, and I, for one, plan to return many more times to explore the depth and breadth of their selection. With Xi Yang's warm hospitality, you're guaranteed to feel right at home in his mini-Champagne cave.
@CharsiuCharlie