Champagne has a PR issue. 

When one thinks of Champagne, images of celebrations, maybe even coronations come to mind. First Class cabins on airplanes stock them as do the finest Michelin starred restaurants. It’s glamorous, it’s prestigious and luxurious. 

Personally, I think of Formula 1 podium winners toasting their success and getting cheeky with popped corks and explosive streams of gold frothing out of bottles to mark the triumphant occasion. Moet & Chandon even has the honour of being the Official Champagne of Formula 1, cementing its place in the sport as the celebratory drink for every victory for the next 10 years commencing in 2025.

The flipside to this image, unfortunately, is that it could be seen as inaccessible, and even exclusive. Inadvertently, there is a misconception due to its longstanding association with excess and wealth that this beverage is only for the well-heeled set. 

This impression is worsened by the public’s confusion on when and how to consume it. 

Yang will bring Champagne down to earth and show you it's for the people.

It is quite common to think of it as an aperitif before drinking the more serious wines, and in Singapore that means it will be your welcome drink served alongside your canapes before the red wines (preferably from the Old World) are presented, appropriately decanted and clinked. 

Hollywood and pop culture has also helped to promote the idea that bubbly is a post dinner drink synonymous with club culture. Bottle service (i.e. a VIP experience offered at clubs), a nightlife trend that emerged in the U.S in the 90’s, typically involve a retinue of gorgeous ladies (or men) emerging with premium Champagne that are adorned with sparklers.

Whatever the image in your head, Yeo Xi Yang, or Yang as he is known, wants you to know that Champagne is an accessible and friendly beverage. Yang is the founder of Convivial Champagne Bar, the first only dedicated Champagne bar here in Singapore and not to mention the only from Asia on the Star Wine list. 

Armed with a series of impressive accomplishments, in September 2023, Yang took over a unit along North Canal Road, a stone’s throw from Raffles Place on the fringes of Boat Quay and reimagined it with inspiration from the “cathedrals”, that is, the subterranean white chalk cellars associated with Ruinart. 

Convivial Champagne Bar is perhaps the only of its kind in Asia - a dedicated Champagne bar with over 200 references spanning over 40 villages in Champagne.

The result is the perception of a cavernous environment that can seat 36 people at any given time. The modern and minimalist space is a perfect setting for post work drinks, to clear your head of the worldly troubles outside. It is after all a temple devoted to Champagne! Dom Perignon would be proud, and Dionysus would weep. 

This is the first time, I believe, that I have been to an owned-led establishment, and I can immediately feel the difference. You feel as though you are visiting an old friend’s bar. Yang is warm and his passion for Champagne is positively infectious. This is not surprising if one has the knowledge of Yang’s tour of duty. He served as sommelier in Les Amis, The Black Swan, Straits Clan and most recently at Park90. Did we also mention that he won Best Sommelier of Singapore 2022 and previously earned accolades such as Best Sommelier of Singapore in French Wines 2016 and 2018, hence making him one of Singapore’s youngest and most accomplished sommeliers?

The years of experience shows. He is enthusiastic and friendly but knows just when to leave you to enjoy the drinks. Magically, he will appear again when appropriate, showing his keen attention to all guests. Perhaps this is by design, as the space is intimate enough to ensure that the Convivial team has a bird’s eye on all guests and yet not too confined to feel as though you’re the subject of surveillance.

Two glasses of Champagne and you're in!

We were handed a menu that had not one or two varieties Champagne by glass, but a whopping 7 or 8. Despite it being a dedicated Champagne bar, there are white and red wines available by glass too! In keeping with the theme, they even offer still red and whites that come from the Champagne region, also known as Coteaux Champenois. So, you don’t have to worry if you have a friend or companion that just wasn’t feeling some effervescent goodness that day.

Without further ado let’s dive into what we had!

The Andre Clouet “Grand Reserve” Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs, Brut NV was what we started with. 

My rudimentary taste buds were pleased. It makes for easy drinking as it is crisp, refreshing and light. The perfect first drink to perk up the senses. Crisp apple, citrus fruits were the predominant aromas that came through for me alongside some hints of floral and honey. It had a long finish and before I knew it, I had gulped it all down. 

Our next glasses were guided by Yang’s recommendations. 

First the, Moussé et Fils, “l’Orage” Blanc de Blancs, Extra Brut (V21) NV followed by the Famille Delouvin, "Meunier Perpétuel" Blanc de Meunier, Extra Brut NV.

Champagne Moussé, as was explained to us, is a family-owned estate that celebrated their grand centennial in 2023. Four generations of winemaking know-how was passed on from each generation and an even more impressive lineage of 12 generations of Champagne growing expertise. 

Champagne Moussé, we were told, is also mindful of its environmental costs and to this end, they have committed towards reducing their carbon footprint to zero. In fact, it is said that few vignerons are as committed as Cedric Moussé to environmental sustainability. We have found out that under his leadership, the winery undergone seismic changes to achieve this noble goal. Solar energy is harnessed to power the cellar, tasting room and 2 houses on the property. Geothermal energy is utilised for moderating the temperature at the winery. Two legged and four legged friends roam the vineyards (that is, pigs, chickens and sheep), and their purpose is to turn the soil and feed on the weeds. 

There is also a story to the name. “L’Orage” in French means, “the storm”, thereby making reference to a devastatingly small crop in 2021. You will also note from the artwork on the bottle that there are 11 people depicted. One of them is holding an umbrella and there is even what appears to be a rooster. These 11 people are representations of the top 11 producers who sold their Chardonnay to Moussé to help offset his losses. Their names are listed on the back label, no doubt an ode to the camaraderie and friendship that helped make this bottle possible.

This is a 100% Chardonnay pale yellow nectar where grapefruit shone the most for me. Fermented and aged in stainless steel for 24 months on the lees, it is bright in acidity but not too overbearing, making it fun to drink. 

Now onto the Meunier Perpétuel, a rare 100% Meunier made from solera system covering vintages up to 1992. Solera? Isn’t that for sherry? Turns out that’s not the case. This Champagne is a richer style than anything I have tried revealing bready aromas with ripe fruit (think grapefruit zest) but also other citrus fruits like orange and it even has some nutty notes. It is my first 100% Meunier Champagne, and it is harvested in the village of Vandieres in the area of Vallee de la Marne where the Delouvin family have tended to their estate for 11 generations. 

Geoffrey Delouvin is currently at the helm, continuing the tradition of crafting unique Champagnes made from the 7 hectares of vineyard mainly comprising old vines on a diverse range of soils. The Pinot Meunier is the focal point and herbicides and pesticides are shunned, for the sake of biodiversity. 

There are two main lines of Champagne, namely the “Delouvin Nowack” and the “‘Famille Delouvin”. We are given to understand that the former is a more conventional, fresh fruit-driven Champagne. Hopefully one day I will get to try both to do the comparison for myself. 

Convivial ensures that your drinks are served before the food. This puts the Champagne as the focal point and the food as the supporting cast of the experience. The carefully curated menu paired excellently with our various bubbly.

The blue swimmer crab pasta was cooked to al dente perfection. 

The sea bass fingers and the greedy extra order of daily special fries were lovely complements to satiate any peckish tendencies. The tako karaage and the potato hash sticks have been praised as pretty good nibbles too.

Although not on the menu, there will usually be desserts available. 

We had apple pie with ice cream that was a wonderful, sweet ending to the meal. While we were given a gentle warning that it may take up to 15 minutes to prepare, the wait didn’t seem long at all. A delightful treat to a sumptuous meal. 

Throughout the evening, we watched as Yang flitted from table to table ensuring all guests were well taken care of answering any questions and making suggestions. We peppered the evening with many questions too, including the following:

“Is a Magnum really better than the standard 750 ml bottle?”

“How do you store the bottles that you use for Champagnes by the glass?”

He gamely answered them all, and even did a live demonstration of how the Coravin works! 

If you’re alone, fret not. There is a bar counter area that is ideal for solo visitors that did pop by as the night went on. Next time, I will drop by for a cheeky drink and hopefully the elusive Egly-Ouriet will be available - I hear its divine!

When the evening ended, I was left asking myself why didn’t I visit Convivial sooner?

The hospitality was incredible, and it reminded me that human connection is still the most potent ingredient that has, regrettably, diminished in importance, sacrificed at the altar of efficiency. 

Convivial certainly lives up to its name, and Yang the embodiment of its ethos. 

@crystaltonic

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Convivial Champagne Bar

https://www.convivial.com.sg/

11 North Canal Road, #01-01 The Offshore, Singapore 048824