Where could one witness an accurate portrait of Singapore? Get on Google and you might be pointed to the iconic Marina Bay Sands with its skyline-defining silhouette, the verdant architecture marvel that is “Gardens by the Bay”, or the stylish streets of high-end bars and lounges at Club Street.

These attractions that have become the face of Singapore on travel magazines, only represent a glossy and sanitized surface of what the city-state truly is. If you yearn to connect with the soul of Singapore, seek it in the unpretentious, bustling corridors of our old shopping centres, places like Fortune Centre.

There is a certain charm to these old-world microcosms that retain their idiosyncrasies from the 90s. Entering Fortune Centre does feel a little bit like stepping into a time capsule where I am 15 years younger. As I step on the worn-out escalators that groan under my weight, I notice the well-worn floors and faded walls. The air is a mélange of unrelated scents – light muskiness and wood polish from Buddhist antique stores, minty notes of medicinal ointments acupuncture halls, and perhaps Indian spices wafting from small grocery stalls. Food aromas linger too – the wafting notes of coffee from a tiny café, steamy offerings from a vegetarian noodle stall and the familiar spice of Korean tofu stew.

But Fortune Centre, like Singapore itself, is a creature of ceaseless evolution. Its tenants are a revolving door of old and new, tradition and modernity. A prime example is the recent opening of a Japanese umeshu-focused speakeasy-style izakaya within the maze of shop lots.

The entrance is concealed behind a row of vending machines stocked with Japanese-brand contraceptives and magazines. Yes, everyone online is saying it’s a “hidden” entrance and “good luck finding it!”. But I found it impossible to miss a bright blue shelf stocked with boxes of tasteful Japanese literature and Okamoto.

I find myself early for my rendezvous, my companions late as per usual. I decide to grab a few drinks on my own and have a chat with the bartender. Stepping in, I am led right at the bar counter where I could strike up a conversation with the friendly and effusive bartender, Long. The atmosphere is crowded but relaxed and reminiscent of a traditional Japanese izakaya, but the smaller space makes it feel more intimate and cosy.

I’ll let you in on a secret. My relationship with most store-bought umeshus has been less than favorable, as I find them too sickly sweet or synthetic. Since Ume San 100 is known for offering the country’s “largest umeshu collection”, I didn’t want to just try any run-of-the-mill umeshu that I could have picked off a grocery store shelf. I’m looking to receive an education in umeshu. And if my palate remains unconvinced after today, I think I’m ready to call it quits with this alcohol.

I begin my first round with the “Starter Umeshu Set,” which has 3 different styles of umeshu. One made with green nanko plums (Meiri Karakuen), one made with 4 different plums (Ohshukubai Akai) and a cloudy umeshu (Ozeki Nigori). The Meiri Karakuen has a pretty “standard” profile typical of a bottle of entry-range Choya, but I liked that it is lighter, little fresher and mellower. This is probably due to the use of unripe green plums (as opposed to ripe plums), which creates a more complex profile of zestiness and sweetness.

The ruby red Ohshukubai Akai is strongly reminiscent of cranberry juice and Ribena, with a stronger acidity and almost cloying sweetness. This comes a little too cloying for me initially, but gets better as the cube of ice melts within.

The most enjoyable for me was definitely the Ozeki Nigori cloudy umeshu. This is wasn’t just made with steeped plums – ripe plum flesh has been added to it. This has a rich and runny texture with the taste of ripe plums (skin, flesh, the whole shebang) and just mildly sweet. I found this the most pleasant and most natural tasting.

I harassed Long, the bartender, and asked him all sorts of questions like: “What’s the base spirit of this umeshu?” “Was it whisky or sake or shochu?” Sensing I was a spirits geek, he pulled up a little orange bottle with the words “Gin No Suzu” and poured me a shot on the house.

From the moment I took a whiff, I knew this was a different creature altogether. It smells of vibrant fresh plums, vanilla, honey and tart notes of plum skin. The palate is of intense tart fruits, like having some Thai green mango salad, giving way to the bitterness of grapefruit pith, the light tannins of plum skins, and then honeyed sweetness. It is lightly briny with even a bit of heat on the back. With the intense tartness, this neither tastes sugary nor syrupy. Woah!

One common complain about umeshu is the overly sugary and saccharine concoctions made to appeal to the broad masses. The makers of this umeshu understand this concern, and made this with ripe plums, shochu and just a very small amount of honey enough to bring out the natural fruitiness and acidity of the plums. For the following minutes, I couldn’t stop raving about this umeshu to Long. I think he must have regretted pouring it for me.

I was beginning to feel the buzz at this point, but my companions still haven’t arrived. A umeshu highball would be in order. “Could you recommend me a more interesting flavoured highball?” I asked Frank, the manager of the bar. He recommended me the Shiso Ume Highball.

This was also fantastic! It’s really fresh and like drinking a mildly sweet grapefruit flavoured soda. Sweetness is balanced with a fresh, light herbaceous note of mint and perilla. Just like eating a fruit salad. Coincidentally, I just found out that this highball was made with the same shiso umeshu that our other writer had reviewed a year ago, and I agree with her assessment wholeheartedly – these grassy herbaceous notes of perilla leaf really does wonders for a umeshu, balancing out the sweetness and making this a really well-rounded cocktail.

This must have been really simple to make, but it knocks a Jim Beam highball far out of the park.

| Read Yatagarasu Yoshino Monogatari Shiso Umeshu Review by @lotusroot518

The evening continues with the arrival of my two companions. I excuse myself from the bar table and weaved through the small crowd to join them at their dining table in the corner. We order a modest amount of food. Just an Angry Asari Soup Ramen (chicken & clam broth) and a diced Wagyu Steak with ponzu sauce. I’m not a food critic, and this isn’t a full-service restaurant, but both are solid I-would-order-again dishes, comparable to some of the best izakayas in town. They cost less than all of the drinks we ordered too!

Stef orders the P!nk cocktail which was made with Umeshu blanc (made with white ume fruits), baisu (plum vinegar), ground Sakura flowers and with ume salt on the rim. Taking a sip from her drink, I find this really smooth, light and floral in aroma – I definitely get the Sakura florals on the nose. On the palate, I’m not sure if I’m missing something, but this just tastes sweet, peachy, a little Bandung-like with a soda fizziness and not much else going on. This comes with a ton of ice, so that could have masked the alcohol so I can barely taste the liquor in this.

Val orders the Kopi San cocktail, which was made with coffee, Yamazaki Umeshu, whisky and coconut cream. And wow – this one is even more potent than imagined. First off, we aren’t expecting this to be hot! The first sip is a heady, potent punch of espresso, whisky, and Ondeh-Ondeh. There is a really rich layer of coconut foam which I took in a whole mouthful of and gasped.

Both of my friends are not typically big cocktail people, but I can tell the girls really love the Kopi San because it was sweet, incredibly rich and dessert-like. But at this hot temperature, the coffee mixed with whisky and heavy coconut cream feels a little bit too much to handle for me. I find it a bit too overwhelmingly intense or jelak and I couldn’t detect any umeshu notes. I would have opted for this to be served cold if I were given the option.

Finally, we jointly share a non-umeshu inspired cocktail – the creamy Pot De Fleurs that is made with vanilla liqueur, crème liqueur, cocoa and elderflower cordial. With cocoa powder and so much cream, drinking this feels like diving into a tub of Tiramisu, although the palate quickly evolves into a distinctive floral undertone and notes of key lime pie. This is really creamy but fairly well-balanced. I much prefer this over the Kopi San.

I recommend doing some research on the menu before heading down to Ume San 100 – because knowing what to order gives you a world of enjoyment. For spirits geeks, the standout factor at Ume San 100 is the expansive range of craft umeshu and highball on offer. It is really a treasure trove for enthusiasts looking to discover some top end umeshu. On the other hand, the cocktails made here seem geared towards a younger crowd from the nearby colleges. They are more akin to decadent liquid desserts than the balanced cocktails you'd typically find at an international cocktail bar. Rich, creamy and indulgent, they cater to those who appreciate their drinks sweet and dessert-like.

In terms of ambience, the bar exudes an inviting and comfortable vibe that makes it an easy choice for a relaxing evening out. However, there's a sense of newness that still pervades the establishment. Everything feels a tad too pristine, too clean – it's like a shiny new pair of leather shoes that are still being worn in.

But this isn't a bad thing at all! As I step out of the umeshu bar and return into the vibrant chaos of Fortune Centre, I am reminded once again of the unique charm of these old shopping centres. This young crowd (including myself) would not have had a reason to visit this place if not for this new hip umeshu specialty bar – and for that I am grateful. And just like how a good wine improves with age, or how a Stradivarius violin's sound sweetens over time, there's an air of anticipation that surrounds Ume San 100. As the establishment slowly carves out its identity and eases into its rhythm at Fortune Centre, there's no doubt in my mind that it will only begin to develop its distinctive character. 

@CharsiuCharlie

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Ume San 100

Ramen Bar by Day, Umeshu and Highball Bar by Night

Address: 190 Middle Road, #02-07,

Fortune Centre, Singapore 188979

Opening hours: Daily 5pm to 11pm

Reservations here | IG: @umesan_100