“Many people can become lawyers, but only you can brew sake.” This was how the father of the current owner of Matsui Brewery in Kyoto (which makes Kagura Sake) gently persuaded him, fresh out of law school, to trade the courtroom for the family sake brewery.

I realised just how fitting that quote was, not only for sake brewers, but for people like our sommelier guide for the evening who, drawn by the magnetic allure of Japan’s national drink, turned to a career of telling its stories. Alex didn’t mention that he himself studied law in the UK (we did some digging as writers ourselves). Yet today, most in Singapore’s sake lovers’ scene know him best not as Alex the solicitor, but as Alex the sake sommelier, educator and man behind Omunomu Craft Sake and Raw Bar.

Ahead of the much-anticipated Sake Matsuri Singapore 2025 happening this weekend on 16–18^th May 2025 (which would showcase 400 unique sakes to taste and masterclasses), we attended Alex’s insightful masterclass on the evolution of sake over the past 20 years, how key modern movements – especially in craft sake – look back at intriguing old traditional ways, and the future trends in sake. Let’s get stuck in!

The Evolution of Sake Since the 1930s

For the recent two decades, sake has undergone an astonishing transformation. Gone are the days when polished rice percentages and tradition were the sole marks of quality. Today's sake is vibrant, daring, and unmistakably personal. Alex likens it to social media trends—just as swiftly as TikTok dances shift, new sake styles are emerging, each trend birthed by younger brewers determined to craft something truly their own.

Until the early 2000s, not much fundamentally shifted under the traditional Ginjo rules and sake practice. However, Alex observed, from then on a series of micro-trends began popping up all over Japan.

Consider that the invention of the vertical rice polishing machine happened in 1933. The “rice milling war” wacked kicked off by Dassai 23 in the 2000s which took polishing to a yet more competitive level and saw breweries polish rice down to ridiculously low percentages in the pursuit of extreme purity. This 'war' finally ended in 2020, with Niizawa Brewery achieving an incredible 0.85% polish rate.

Yet while the “rice milling war” took the headlines, other quiet revolutions have been happening behind the scenes.

The now-cult favourite producer Terada Honke pioneered low-intervention sake brewing in 2003 (also described by many a “natural sake” although Alex isn’t a fan of that misleading term).

The “glucose-rich” trend was famously pioneered by Juyondai in 2015, which moved sake beyond its traditional earthy, dry, restrained image to an image of luxury sakes as lush, sweet and incredibly easy to drink.

Yet not long after in 2016, Senkin Brewery offered a fascinating counter-movement with earthy and high-acid styles of sake. 2020 onwards saw the hybrid style of “sweet-and-sour” the likes of Aramasa, which carries brightness,sweetness, but with an equallysharp, vivid acidity.

This rapid evolution shows how sake-making philosophies shift incredibly quickly. So instead of just focusing on a brewery’s 300-year history, Alex argued that it is more relevant to look at when the current toji, the master brewer, took over to steer the brewery in a new direction.

Re-Enter Doburoku

Our exploration tonight began with the ancient ancestor of sake – doburoku. Described evocatively as the "origin of sake" and the "great grandfather of all Sake," Doburoku presents as a porridge-like brew fermented raw straight from the vat, made by farmers soon after first learning to cultivate rice.

Doburoku faced significant challenges and was for a long time illegal in Japan since the Meiji era (due to the need to raise tax revenue). But it began emerging back into legality began only in 2001 with the establishment of around 180 special designated zones across Japan allowing traditional ryokans to brew it again.

 

Alex described the modern doburoku scene has having four main categories: Temple Doburoku, brewed as offerings to gods and not for sale (except sometimes at festivals); Brewery Doburoku, made by a few full-scale sake breweries (though many focus on refined sake); Craft Doburoku, small-batch brews from breweries, often part of collectives like the ten represented by Omunomu Bar; and Indie Doburoku, a loose category covering restaurants (like the notable Doburoku-ya in Tokyo) or ryokans brewing for their guests.

An important part of the craft sake movement encompasses doburoku. After all, it is the primordial sake, and yet it breaks one of the major cardinal rules of Japanese sake, which is to be pressed. Alex’s Omunomu is of course one of the very few bars actively promoting and supporting craft doburoku.

While sake can be filtered, aged, or pasteurised, Alex describes brewing doburoku as having “no escape”. What you see in the fermentation tank is almost the final product that is presented in the glass. This demands great accuracy from the brewer.

The first drink we sampled tonight was Konohanano’s Yamahai Doburoku.

Tasted: Konohanano Yamahai Doburoku

Established in 2020 in Asakusa by Yosuke Hosoi, Konohanano Brewery specialises in reinventing this reinventing this ancient farmhouse style as a drink that is elegant, smooth, and fun.

Behind the bar’s warm wood counter, small tanks of doburoku (unfiltered sake) bubble away – a vivid show of fermentation for patrons. Their flagship doburoku tend to deliver gentle sweetness of rice essence, a soft and creamy mouthfeel, and a refreshing acidity. This may be due to the use of white koji that is intentionally added to some batches to yield more citric acid and amp up brightness.

On the nose, an inviting wave of fresh, honeyed milk and soft vanilla notes, woven effortlessly with bright aromas of freshly pressed pear juice. It’s much fruitier and cleaner than the earthier style of most doburoku.

On the palate, a luxurious creamy texture reminding me of rich rice pudding gently stirred with barley grains. Sweet, juicy pear dances vibrantly alongside the wholesome, chewy presence of rice, balanced impeccably by an enduring karakuchi dryness and an intriguing fizzy tang. The finish is crisp and lively—pear cider, melon freshness, and zesty lemon peel dryness linger.

The Freedom To Play With Auxiliary Ingredients

So tradition doesn’t necessarily imply rules and restriction, especially if you look back far enough into sake’s origin. Yet strict brewing rules came to be codified in the recent century.

The modern craft sake movement looks to respect traditional brewing while promoting freedom and the coexistence of different genres of sakes. One way this freedom manifests is in the addition of auxiliary ingredients like hops or flowers into the sake mash, and this is what we experienced with Librom’s Prova Sake.

Tasted: Librom Prova Kabosu & Hops Sake

The addition of hops to sake might sound radical, but Alex insisted that there is precedence if you look back in the records of brewing history over a thousand years ago. Interestingly, ancient brewers in Tohoku had a practice of adding herbs, flowers, that often a similar bittering and aromatic quality as hops to water for sake brewing.

Founded in Kyushu by two childhood friends, Mitsuto Yagyu and Shunpei Anami who originally dreamed of starting a sake brewery in Italy after having fallen in love with European culture. Fate kept them in Japan, but Italy lives on in their brand name – a portmanteau of libertà (freedom) and romanzo (romance).

Librom is one of several young micro-kuras using craft sake brewing methods that add local fruits, herbs, or even spicesduring fermentation. The idea is to introduce Japanese brews to young people who are unfamiliar with traditional nihonshu to enjoy casually, leveraging flavourful adjuncts.

To that end, Librom's Prova is a sake brewed with kabosu (Japanese lime) and karahana-so (Japanese common hop).

The most captivating aspect of the Librom Prova was its aroma. It immediately captures your nose with that exuberantly crisp and vividly hoppy aroma, reminiscent of the exhilarating freshness of a classic West Coast IPA. Aromas of vibrant yuzu and zesty grapefruit leap from the glass, accompanied by nuances of grapefruit jelly and delicate hints of tropical mango sago.

In the palate, it’s impeccably crisp, balancing a gentle acidity with the pleasant bitterness of citrus pith. Juicy segments of ripe orange supremes with the moderate sweetness of grapefruit, underpinned by a subtle, herbaceous note of hops that lingers briefly.

This is inherently approachable wit ha refreshingly low ABV for a sake. I loved the intricate layers of citrus and hops on the nose, though as a hoppy beer lover, I wished for a touch more assertiveness from its hop character!

Tasted: Linné 800 YAO Soba Koji Sake

Another fascinating frontier in auxiliary ingredients is Alternative Koji.

Now, koji is a vital fungus used in sake brewing to convert starch into sugar that can then be used for making alcohol. Sake is almost always made with rice koji ­– steamed rice that has been inoculated with the Aspergillus oryzae mould.

Yet some wondered how sake might turn out if it was brewed from alternative koji – or koji inoculated within a non-rice ingredient. Instead of rice koji, Alex asked, why not use roasted chestnuts inoculated with koji? This also hints at a future where koji fermentation could be used globally with local crops like sweet potatoes in regions where rice isn't a primary crop.

Alex thus introduced Linné Brewery which produced the Yao Soba Koji Sake we would be tasting.

Linné was launched as aphantom brewery producer, without a fixed brewery of its own. Its founder, Shoya Imai, was in fact co-founder of the well-known Wakaze Brewery that has outposts in both Tokyo and Paris.

After years of brewing around the world, he returned to Japan driven by the singular idea to liberate koji and redefine sake. And thus, he and his teamed brewed their inaugural batch of sake under the “800 Yao” series using barley,buckwheat (soba) andsweet potato as a base for koji-inoculation.

The use of different koji bases led to significant variation in flavour profile. The barley-koji sake was softly malted and nutty, the soba-koji version gave a floral, buckwheat honey aroma, while the sweet potato one had earthy sweetness and a lactic tang.

Nosing it ourselves, it opens with rich expressive notes of ripe melon and the comforting sweetness of rice pudding. Gentle florals drift in with some interesting earthy mustiness, reminiscent of shitake. Some delicate mineral nuances of slate and a soft sweetness evocative of barley grains.

The palate impresses with its substantial, richly textured mouthfeel, an elegant balance between gentle sweetness and nuanced bitterness. The soba koji seems to introduce a remarkable starchy sensation akin to barley water, integrated alongside earthy, savoury undertones and a pronounced minerality. Bittersweet soba notes emerge over time, with an impressively long finish revealing a robust graininess that lingers with dark chocolate and cedar

This Linné 800 YAO Soba Koji sake is extraordinary! It is distinctly sake at its core yet presents layers of complexity I’ve never seen in sakes.

Modern Artisanal Sake

Beyond these prominently crafty sakes, there’s also been significant evolution in the artisanal Nihonshu or “boutique sake” space.

Here, Alex observed, the contrast is between large commercial breweries focused on consistency and modern brewers who, unlike those traditionally trained in toji guilds focused on teaching 'how' to make a specific regional style, having studied at university to learn the 'why' behind sake production. Understanding the theory rather than slavishly following tradition helps younger producers bring in their own ideas while respecting house styles.

Tasting: Kagura Shichiyo Junmai Daiginjo Muroka Nama Genshu

Matsui Shuzo from Kyoto – the producer of Kagura Sake – a nearly 300-year-old brewery, is a prime example of this modern artisanal approach. Yet if you walk into their compact brewery today, you’ll find state-of-the-art equipment, a stainless-steel-walled koji room, solar panels on the roof and an international brewing team chatting in English.

Jiemon Matsui grew up without a care for sake brewing and after graduating from law school, was prepared to enter the workforce. However, in 2008, his father persuaded him with a powerful call of duty. The family had re-opened a dormant brewery and hoped Jiemon would return home to lead it.

And with that, Matsui Shuzo was reborn in Kyoto city within a small brewing space of only ~130 m². But for what they lack in size, they make up for in smart design and philosophy. Jiemon installed five fully temperature-controlled fermentation tanksand climate-conditioned the entire brewery, allowing brewing year-round to meet demand.

Jiemon Matsui of Matsui Brewery.

With precision equipment, the brewery ferments at exacting temperatures to achieve both aromatic and flavourful profiles – after all, temperature control is better done by machines that could calibrate within a ± 0.1°C margin of error, 24/7.

The Kagura Shichiyo Junmai Daiginjo Muroka Nama Genshu which we tasted showcases precisely how technology supports the charater of modern artisanal sake.

As we tasted it, Alex pointed out how this modern style of sake offers a very subtle micro-fizz that adds a lift to the palate, and a mineral crispness. This was only possible by the brewery’s all-year-round shiboritate sake system (shiboritate refers to sake that is bottled immediately after pressing to retain freshness and vibrancy). The entire brewery is temperature controlled, which ensures peak freshness all year round, even during hot summers.

On the nose, this is delicately aromatic, with subtle notes of cooked Japonica rice. Fresh muscat grapes and vibrant pineapple notes dance in a clean sweetness underscored by minerality and faint notes of slate. There’s a gentle citric peel fizz that adds some liveliness, along with soft lactic nuances.

On the palate, it’s precise and beautifully tight. Silky vanilla creaminess and light notes of cedar. Some gentle whispers of cooling mint alongside earthy rice grain accents, with a delightful gentle fizz that accentuates the refreshing character. Some ginjoka, notes of barley cream and lactic acid in the finish, while a dryness gracefully persists.

We all found this really flavourful and impeccably balanced. It encapsulates a modern style of premium sake- crisp, precise, and universally appealing, a clear crowd favourite that refreshes and delights!

Modern Aged Sake

Our survey of modern sake styles wouldn’t be complete without aged sake – even if it’s not entirely new. Legally, aged sake must be matured for at least three years.

Aged sake has a long history and had been associated with nobility. However, production declined dramatically after the Meiji era introduced taxation based on production volume rather than sales, thus removing the incentive to age the sake. Aged sake production only gradually restarted after this taxation was abolished in the 1940s.

Modern sake brewers are now seeking to recover this lost knowledge during the production gap. In 2005, the Brewing Society of Japan introduced the 100-Year Aged Sake Project as a research project to age sake for one hundred years while studying how age influence flavour.

For now, what’s known is that aging sake brings about some fascinating flavour transformations. “Fresh fruits become baked fruits. Baked fruits become preserved fruits. Proteins and umami convert into soy sauce, mushroom, bone broth, or dashi,” enthused Alex. Yet Alex stressed that aging sake will only work well if the specific sake was specifically brewed with the intent to be aged – often with higher alcohol, richness and sweetness to mellow over time.

An example we’re tasting is this bottle of Shirasugi Brewery’s Shirakiku Gachaman Yamahai Junmai 2019 that had been aged for 6 years by now.

Tasting: Shirakiku Gachaman Yamahai Junmai 2019 Aged Sake

On the coastal edge of Kyoto Prefecture sits Shirasugi Shuzo, that was founded in 1777 with just four people running the entire operation.

The tiny brewery claims to be the only brewery in Japan that brews exclusively withordinary table rice, such as Koshihikari andSasanishiki. It’s a radical departure – these rices are sticky and more challenging to ferment. But the brewery has honed techniques over generations to tame them, achieving a sort of “trueterroir expression”of their region’s staple crop.

In nosing Shirasugi’s aged sake, we’re immersed in robust earthiness and nuttiness that intertwine with decadent notes of caramelised sugar and gently stewed fruits. Aromas of poached pears and syrupy tinned peaches mingle harmoniously with intriguing hints of savoury chicken essence, delicate pandan sweetness, and the subtle, calming fragrance of chrysanthemum tea. Some undertones of creamy Brie and a whisper of tart ume.

On the palate, the texture is wonderfully thick and full-bodied. Vibrant notes of lemon peel and dried apricots add brightness, contrasting with deeper, richer layers of honey, soy sauce and molasses. Toasted peanuts lend a savoury Snickers Bar nuttiness, along with an unexpected sharpness reminding me of bird's eye chilli spice on the back of the throat.

This is rich, nuanced and sophisticated. It’s an exemplary showcase of the depth of a yamahai-style, brought out further by the savoury complexities of an aged sake.

The Rise of Low-Intervention (or “Natural”) Sakes

Finally, we turn to the funky cult favourite low-intervention sake style that has been seeing much hype in recent years, especially after the acclaimed avant garde three-Michelin-star restaurant Noma of Copenhagen first delighted its diners with sakes the likes of Terada Honke.

But what does low-intervention mean in the context of sake? While traditional brewing involves countless human decisions to control the process, low-intervention aims to remove the human hand as much as possible, letting nature guide fermentation. This approach includes using wild yeast, open fermentation (allowing ambient microbes in), and sometimes even koji-free brewing experimentation which Alex described as a very strange tasting experience – almost like water infused with alcohol.

Some clarification on preferred terminology: Alex explained that he prefers the term "low-intervention" over "natural" because sake production is inherently man-made.

Now, the last bottle of our night was the Maibijin Junmai Mizumoto Muku from Mikawa Shuzojo.

Tasting: Maibijin Junmai Mizumoto Muku

Tucked into the serene countryside of Fukui Prefecture,Mikawa Shuzojo brews a flagship sake with an unassuming brand for a sake – “Maibijin”(舞美人) meaning “dancing beauty.” Yet amongst sake aficionados, Maibijin’s beauty is slightly unconventional; it’s regarded as a deviant sake.

What’s so unusual? In a word: acidity. Maibijin’s signature style is intensely sour and umami-rich, achieved through a brewing regimen that relies on ambient yeast “falling from the sky” – in a similar principle to the spontaneous fermentation used in some European beers like Lambic.

The process seems wild and uncalibrated on the surface, but Alex explained that these ambient microbes present in the brewery have lived there for generations, and their presence prevent bad or harmful bacteria from growing during the fermentation process.

These microbes have lived in the brewery for generations. They help fermentation— intentionally or not. Their presence also prevents external bad bacteria from growing. It keeps the environment safe for brewing. Kinya Mikawa, the sixth-generation owner and head brewer named his ambient yeast, “sanQ yeast”, which sounds like a Japanese person saying “thank you” although you may notice that the word “san” also means acidity in Japanese.

While a standard nihonshu might have an acidity of 1.2–1.5; Maibijin routinely clocks in at 6.0+, with certain special batches reaching an eye-popping7.4 in titrated acidity. For context, that’s approaching the acidity of wines like Riesling or even a young Champagne – practically unheard of in sake.

This feels immediately arresting on the nose. A bold note of mouldy blue cheese intertwined with richly lactic notes reminiscent of fresh strawberry yoghurt. A curious undertone of wet wool mingles subtly with ripe blueberry.

The palate surprises just as vivid tart notes of fresh squeezed lemon juice is tempered by a creamy, yoghurty counterpoint. Soft waves of guava slowly drift in, while deeper, earthier mushroom notes linger gently at the back of the throat, grounding its brighter aspects. The complexity and intensity continue to evolve – the finish giving us more cheesiness – now akin to creamy brie, accompanied by some notes of toasted crunchy granola.

Milky, funky and profoundly unusual – this sake challenges your idea of what sake can be. And it was clear why Alex insisted that we only save this potent brew as the last item to taste this evening. As its complexity unravels, it gradually becomes strangely addictive.

We’re in a Golden Age of Sakes

So what does this all tell us about the future of the sake industry?

Alex observed that while in Japan sake is sometimes seen as old-fashioned, overseas markets are currently driving the evolution of sake. Sake is becoming perceived as cool and exotic, as it gains traction in international fine dining, being incorporated into wine pairings by chefs the likes of Heston Blumenthal.

This opportunity is pushing Japanese brewers to innovate and create modern sakes that resonate with a wider international audience, and a younger generation of Japanese people.

Ultimately, Alex concluded that we are actually living in a "golden age of sake" today – we’re seeing a brilliant mix of tradition and exciting modernism, a balance that future generations might miss. “Drink more sake now,” Alex recommends.

To experience insightful sake masterclass like the above, check out Sake Matsuri 2025 this 16-18 May!  

@CharsiuCharlie