The global palate has, in recent years, discovered a newfound appreciation for the nuanced flavours of Chinese wines and spirits. Regions like Ningxia, Yunnan, and Shandong are gaining international recognition for their ambitious grape winemaking, while baijiu is shedding its caricature as “Chinese firewater” with international audiences expressing a genuine curiosity with the spirit’s complexity and potential.

Yet, long before this current tide of enthusiasm, one company was already laying the groundwork. What began as a modest importer of rice wine—once a staple for dockside workers in colonial Singapore—has grown into a Singaporean institution, its resilient business evolving through the generations and mirroring the Middle Kingdom’s increasing engagement with the rest of the world.

As Ang Leong Huat celebrates its centenary this year, it stands as one of Singapore’s leading importers of luxury Chinese wine and spirits brands with a portfolio that boasts prestigious baijiu labels like Luzhou Laojiao and Shui Jing Fang, alongside aromatic Shaohsing wines and a growing selection of Chinese grape wines from rising star producers like Grace Vineyard and Kanaan Winery that challenge the long-held belief that fine wines are exclusively the domain of traditional Old World regions.

To uncover the secrets behind the dynamic but often opaque world of Chinese drinks, we sat down with Mr. Ang Chien Sern, the fourth-generation member of the Ang family and the company’s Chief Operating Officer to have a conversation about all things bottled in China.

We traced Ang Leong Huat’s remarkable rise from its humble beginnings as a rice wine merchant, and discussed the family’s enduring relationships with Chinese wineries and distilleries – a network that has allowed them to stay ahead of the curve and introduce emerging Chinese brands to Singapore before they achieve international acclaim. Chien Sern also examined how baijiu producers to broaden their appeal to modern consumers, and discussed the quest of Chinese wineries to rival the world’s best.

Very few understand the transformation and rise of Chinese wine and spirits better than Ang Leong Huat does – after all, they’ve spent a hundred years in the business. So let’s dive in to their insights!

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“Our second-generation leader, Ang Kok Seng, travelled to Guangzhou for trade fairs [in the 1950s]. He observed that while ‘hua tiao chiew’ were commonly used in cooking, their nuanced flavours were often overlooked as a standalone beverage. Recognising an opportunity to shift consumer perceptions, we set out to introduce a high-quality Chinese rice wine.”

[88 Bamboo]: First, we’d like to congratulate you on Ang Leong Huat’s 100th anniversary this year as the company continues to thrive over a century – such an achievement in Singapore’s business landscape! The company has come such a long way, and we’d love to learn more about its early beginnings and the direction it has taken over the years.

To start, could you share with us what was the primary business of Ang Leong Huat when it was first founded back in the 1920s? And what were the key factors that led to its evolution into the leading importer and distributor of some of the most exciting luxury brands of baijiu, Chinese grape wine and Shaohsing wine?

[Ang Chien Sern]: Thank you! 

Founded in 1925, the company initially started as an importer of alcoholic beverages, with its products gaining popularity among labour unions and coolies working on the dockside, who often unwind with rice wine after a hard day's work. The success of their imported rice wine led to the creation of a locally produced version under the "Boxer" brand.

Dock workers, also known as coolies, unloading sacks of rice at the Singapore River, c. 1930 (Source: National Archives)

In the second generation, under the leadership of Ang Kok Seng, the company expanded by directly importing alcohol from China, and as China began to engage more with the global market, Ang Leong Huat found increasing business opportunities. Under the third generation, led by Chairman Ang Kah Joo and Sales and Marketing Manager Ang Bee Leng, the company capitalised on the growing global interest in Chinese products, sourcing premium Chinese wines and exploring food and wine pairings to cater to evolving tastes.

[88B]: When it comes to alcoholic beverages, how did Ang Leong Huat go about selecting what to distribute? What is it about these brands that caught your eye and could you guide us on the thought process in making that selection? Also, could you share with our readers any interesting stories or interactions you’ve had with these Chinese wineries or distilleries?

[Chien Sern]: We often visit China to learn and understand more about their local alcoholic beverage trends. At times, we will get feedback from restaurant managers on the kind of brand or drink that customers are looking for. We will then delve into our network in China and speak directly to the brand owner.

Worker shovelling grains at Luzhou Laojiao Distillery (Source: Ming River)

Many Chinese alcoholic drinks have very interesting bottle packaging and tell a rich history of their brand. For example, National Cellar 1573 from Luzhou Laojiao have been using their baijiu fermentation pit since 1573 to produce their exquisite and high-quality baijiu.

[88B]: Over the past decade, consumers have seen an incredible transformation of the international image of Chinese-produced wine and spirits. Consumers now have greater trust in standards, quality and celebrate the emergence of premium Chinese baijiu and wine brands. The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) now includes baijiu in its curriculum, along with coverage of China’s emerging grape wine regions. More recently, we’ve also noticed a growing number of local restaurants adding Chinese wines to their lists and even organising Chinese wine pairing dinners!

As experts and long-time importers of Chinese wines and spirits, how have you seen the market evolve over the years? Beyond quality improvements, what other significant shifts have shaped the market for Chinese luxury wines and spirits in Singapore and the region?

[Chien Sern]: We have seen double-digit growth in baijiu every year for the past decade, and we expect this trend to continue. Since the 2020 lockdown and the rise of e-commerce platforms, more locals have been purchasing and exploring baijiu and Chinese wine from the comfort of their homes.

In recent years, there has been a growing presence of luxury Chinese brands in the local market, particularly in China’s grape wine sector. Notably, there has been an increasing number of labels emerging from the Yunnan Shangri-La mountains.

“Historically, large-scale production was the priority, particularly to meet domestic demand. However, in recent years, Chinese producers have placed greater emphasis on quality and terroir expression. They are hiring international experts, adopting cutting-edge viticultural and winemaking techniques, and focusing on smaller, premium bottlings.”

[88B]: What do you think have been some key milestones that have helped to drive this rise in prestige of Chinese wines and spirits on the global stage?

[Chien Sern]: Over the past two decades, Chinese wines and spirits have steadily earned medals and high ratings at prestigious international competitions, such as the Decanter World Wine Awards and the International Wine & Spirit Competition. These accolades have helped shift perceptions, showcasing that Chinese terroirs, particularly in regions like Ningxia, can produce high-quality wines. This has been further supported by local and national governments in China, which have recognised the economic and cultural value of wine and spirits. They have provided subsidies, improved infrastructure, and promoted wine tourism in key regions such as Ningxia’s Helan Mountain area.

IWSC award presentation for a boutique Ningxia winery, HeLanShan Manor.

In recent years, major baijiu producers including Moutai, Wuliangye, and Luzhou Laojiao have expanded their marketing and distribution networks internationally, introducing the spirit to Western markets. This global push has included tailored branding and packaging, such as smaller bottles and English-language labelling, as well as collaborations with bartenders to create cocktails suited to international palates.

[88B]: Correspondingly, on the side of Chinese producers, have you observed any interesting shifts in their philosophy or strategy over time?

[Chien Sern]: Historically, large-scale production was the priority, particularly to meet domestic demand. However, in recent years, Chinese producers have placed greater emphasis on quality and terroir expression. They are hiring international experts, adopting cutting-edge viticultural and winemaking techniques, and focusing on smaller, premium bottlings.

Wineries in China, especially in Ningxia and Yunnan, are becoming more experimental, with some producers introducing sparkling wines and other styles that align with global trends and palates. For example, we recently brought in the Angelina Brut Reserve Sparkling Chadonnay, produced by Grace Vineyard, which has been met with a positive reception.

As Chinese producers seek greater recognition on the global stage, many are investing in deeper brand narratives. Kanaan Winery in Ningxia, for instance, was founded in 2011 by Fang Wang, daughter of pioneering viticulturist Wang Feng Yu. The winery prides itself on being born from Fang’s bold vision, which included the challenge of growing Riesling in Ningxia, an ambition inspired by her years abroad, particularly in Germany, where she developed a deep passion for the varietal.

“Baijiu is typically classified into 4 main types of aroma (sauce, strong, light, rice) but in China, you can find more than 30 other different types.”

[88B]: Baijiu is recognised by spirits enthusiasts and experts as a product with remarkable complexity, depth and history, and could stand in a category of its own as a fine spirit. Yet, outside of China, it is still widely perceived as a niche category and remains an emerging segment compared to classic spirits like whisky or gin.

How do you think we should bridge the gap for the newer generation of baijiu drinkers? What strategies have been most effective in encouraging more people to explore and appreciate baijiu? Are there certain baijiu aroma sub-categories (香型) or certain brands that would speak well to these new drinkers, and has working with certain industry partners (e.g. cocktail bars) been effective in elevating the prominence of baijiu?

[Chien Sern]: Educational initiatives, such as tastings and workshops can help to demystify baijiu and highlight its diverse flavor spectrum. We have plans in the pipeline to host a baijiu workshop towards the end of the year. We are also active on social media, and are looking to share more fun facts on Chinese wines and spirit, including baijiu.

Collaborating with bars is also an effective way to introduce baijiu to a wider audience. For example, we previously partnered with the cocktail bar Taylor Adam to showcase baijiu as a versatile spirit.

Baijiu is often categorised by its aroma profiles, primarily Sauce Aroma (酱香), Strong Aroma (浓香), Light Aroma (清香), Rice Aroma (米香) and several other nuanced sub-styles. Light Aroma baijius, often associated with Er Guo Tou-style baijiu, tend to be more delicate on the palate, making them a gentler introduction for those unaccustomed to baijiu’s powerful taste. The Red Star Er Guo Tou Blue 12, which is also part of our portfolio, is a good introduction for those new to baijiu.

[88B]: Chinese grape wine has experienced a meteoric rise over the past decade. As the substantial investments in China’s wine industry have begun to bear fruit, we are now seeing a remarkable leap in quality, leading to the emergence of many premium Chinese wine brands. Wine experts are increasingly aware of the key Chinese wine regions like Ningxia, Shandong, Xinjiang – now part of the curriculum of the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET).

As a long-time importer of Chinese wine and spirits, how do you see this evolution continuing to play out in the Chinese grape wine market?

What are the top 3 reasons people buy Chinese wine today? And what else would you highlight as the key uniqueness about Chinese wines that consumers should pay attention to?

[Chien Sern]: In the coming years, I anticipate that producers will likely place greater emphasis on sustainability and technological innovation, focusing on climate adaptation in regions like Ningxia, Xinjiang, and Shandong, and refining their practices to reflect diverse terroirs. At the same time, more Chinese wine brands will seek international markets, capitalising on rising awareness of their potential and distinct identity.

Click here to read all about the five key regions of Chinese wines.

Chinese wines are particularly intriguing as they remain a novelty in many global markets. With Chinese wines still relatively new to international audiences, wine enthusiasts and collectors see them as an exciting discovery.

Well-known varietals are also being cultivated in China’s distinctive terroirs, offering an intriguing comparison to their Western counterparts. Regional diversity is particularly notable – Ningxia’s high-altitude vineyards are renowned for their balanced structure and refined tannins, Shandong’s coastal climate imparts freshness and bright acidity, while Xinjiang’s arid environment produces grapes with remarkable concentration and deep colour. The Kanaan Winery Riesling 2022, for instance, boasts a stunning yellow hue and exudes fresh aromas of grapefruit, green apple, and lime blossom, delivering a highly refreshing and vibrant experience. On the palate, its lively acidity enhances its crisp and invigorating character.

Finally, quality has become a compelling reason to explore Chinese wines. Over the past two decades, Chinese wines and spirits have consistently earned medals and high ratings at prestigious international competitions, such as the Decanter World Wine Awards and the International Wine & Spirit Competition. We carry wines such as the Grace Vineyard Deep Blue 2020 which received an impressive 94 points at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2022.

“In Chinese culture, it is rude to take a sip and not finish all the baijiu.”

[88B]: We understand that Ang Leong Huat owns the Plum Blossom Shaohsing Hua Tiao Chiew, a 5-year vintage wine, which is a uniquely versatile product, valued both as a key ingredient in Chinese cooking and as a beverage for sipping on its own. In fact, Shaohsing wine was served at the 2015 U.S. White House State Dinner where President Barack Obama hosted President Xi Jinping.

Could you share with us how did Ang Leong Huat come to create and own the Plum Blossom Shaohsing Hua Tiao Chiew wine brand? What was the thought process and motivation behind wanting to create your own brand, and could you share with us a couple of little known facts about your brand?

[Chien Sern]: After World War II, stricter regulations on food and wine manufacturing were introduced, prompting us to seek new suppliers in the 1950s and expand our offerings.

Our second-generation leader, Ang Kok Seng, travelled to Guangzhou for trade fairs during this time. He observed that while ‘hua tiao chiew’ were commonly used in cooking, their nuanced flavours were often overlooked as a standalone beverage. Recognising an opportunity to shift consumer perceptions, we set out to introduce a high-quality Chinese rice wine. During his travels to China, Ang Kok Seng secured a supplier for the ‘hua tiao chiew’, which we began importing to Singapore and bottling under the Plum Blossom brand.

It was also the second generation who designed the brand and label, understanding the importance of a distinctive and well-defined identity in the market. The brand name draws inspiration from the iconic Chinese plum blossom, a symbol of resilience and hope. Standing out from competitors was crucial and Ang Kok Seng had a vision to establish Plum Blossom Shaoxing Hua Tiao Chiew as a high-quality wine that every household should have. Remarkably, for the last 40 years, we have remained with the same trusted supplier, ensuring consistency in quality and taste.

“Markets evolve, tastes shift, and new trends emerge at an ever-increasing pace. Businesses that endure for decades are those that can reinvent themselves while staying true to the values and traditions that define their core identity.”

[88B]: Chinese alcoholic drinks have a very deep heritage. And while people may be familiar with well-known baijiu brands or Chinese wineries, we reckon there are still many lesser-known but intriguing aspects of their history, craftsmanship, and cultural significance that remain underappreciated.

In your opinion, what are 3 interesting but little-known facts about Chinese wines and spirits – in general – that more people should know about or appreciate?

[Chien Sern]: Firstly, baijiu is typically classified into 4 main types of aroma (sauce, strong, light, rice) but in China, you can find more than 30 other different types.

Baijiu glasses are small (<10ml) so that you can gan bei (toast). In Chinese culture, it is rude to take a sip and not finish all the baijiu. It is also customary that you have to toast the host to thank him and to whoever toasted you before. Baijiu is also the world's most consumed spirit.

[88B]: What other Chinese alcoholic beverages do you see as growing in popularity and having the potential to become the next big trend? Are there any emerging categories or regional specialties that you believe could capture the interest of modern consumers in Singapore and the region?

[Chien Sern]: One growing trend is the rise of fruit-based wines and liqueurs from various regions of China. Beyond the well-known plum wines (梅酒), producers are innovating with styles such as hawthorn wine (山楂酒), lychee wine (荔枝酒), and citrus-based liqueurs (柑橘酒).

[88B]: Ang Leong Huat has built an impressive portfolio of some of the most iconic premium brands in baijiu, Chinese grape wine, and sipping Shaohsing wine. In Asian culture, pairing these wines and spirits with food is an essential part of the experience, each category having unique characteristics that can complement different cuisines and dishes.

We’d love to hear your recommendations on food pairings for some of these standout expressions in your portfolio. Could you share some of your favourite dishes to pair with the wines and spirits from Ang Leong Huat’s portfolio?

[Chien Sern]: For baijiu, Kweichow Moutai pairs with food that are spicy and sour. Sichuan Fish with Sour Vegetable (酸菜鱼) goes very well with this. National Cellar (Guo Jiao) 1573 pairs well with anything that has ‘Mala’ spice. Hence, Sichuan Mala Chicken (辣子鸡) is good. Fenjiu pairs well with Cantonese cuisine. Drink Fenjiu with a nice fatty roasted goose.

For Chinese wine, Grace Vineyard Tasya's Reserve Marselan pairs with roasted meats like roasted chicken or duck. Helan Qingxue Jiabeilan Reserve Red pairs with rich meat like steak or lamb. Kanaan Riesling pairs with seafood clams or prawns. Sushi as well.

For Shaohsing wine, Shanghainese cuisine pairs best with Pagoda Brand Shaohsing Hua Diao Chiew and Plum Blossom Shaohsing Hua Diao Chiew.

[88B]: Ang Leong Huat has a remarkable history of thriving for a century in Singapore’s evolving drinks landscape, with each generation of leadership building upon the foundation laid before them.

Reflecting on this rich 100-year history and the wisdom passed down through generations, what is the best piece of advice you have received—or would give—to those looking to build a lasting presence in the drinks industry, whether in Singapore or the wider region?

Additionally, what are the most important values that have guided Ang Leong Huat’s success?

[Chien Sern]: One of the most valuable lessons we have learned is the importance of steadfast commitment to quality and authenticity. Whether operating in Singapore or expanding across the region, building trust among consumers relies on consistently delivering excellent products that honour both a brand’s heritage and its drive for innovation. Customers can recognise and appreciate when businesses put genuine effort into their offerings. This trust becomes the foundation upon which long-term relationships are built.

Equally crucial is maintaining an adaptive mindset. Markets evolve, tastes shift, and new trends emerge at an ever-increasing pace. Businesses that endure for decades are those that can reinvent themselves while staying true to the values and traditions that define their core identity. Adaptability means remaining attuned to changing consumer preferences and being willing to pivot when necessary.

In our company, we enforce 3 key values. Trust (信) – to build a trusted reputation with our customers. Quality (优) – to always offer reliable products and services. The focus is on high quality. Progressive (昌) – adopting a mindset that keeps up with trends.

[88B]: Once considered a niche segment, premium Chinese wine and baijiu are now earning recognition on the international stage as their image, quality, and brand equity rose dramatically.

Looking ahead, how do you envision Chinese wine and spirits evolving over the next 10 years? What trends do you foresee shaping the Chinese wine and spirits sector?

[Chien Sern]: Sustainability and responsible production will be the next trend. With environmental concerns rising, Chinese wineries and distilleries are investing in eco-friendly innovations, from organic and biodynamic farming practices to green packaging solutions.

Creative young-gun winemaker Liu Jianjun crafts Pet-Nat wines fermented with different types of tea leaves in China’s Ningxia (Source: James Suckling)

Another emerging trend is the growing popularity of natural wine and we might see more natural wines popping up in the market in the next few years.

[88B]: Thank you once again for doing this interview with us! It’s always a rare privilege to speak with experts on Chinese wine and spirits from a heritage company like yours!

@CharsiuCharlie