“Having grown up right across the street from a sake brewery in Kyoto’s Fushimi District, a famous sake region, the tradition, food culture, and craftsmanship have always been close to me and have considerably impacted me. It has become a reference point for me in thinking about what “Japanese-ness” is”

– Master Blender Jota Tanaka, sharing how his Kyoto heritage influences his whiskymaking philosophy.

In the realm of Japanese whisky, there are few living names as revered and influential as that of Jota Tanaka. He is the Master Blender of Kirin’s Fuji Whisky, made at Fuji Gotemba Distillery which is located nearby the sacred Mount Fuji. Tanaka has spent over thirty years honing his craft and pioneering whisky blending techniques that helped elevate the Japanese whisky category. His career has taken him to a great deal of places – working closely with legendary figures like Jim Rutledge, making bourbon at Four Roses in Kentucky and helping Kirin/Fuji transform the stature of Japanese whisky on the global stage.

Jota-san’s tireless dedication develop the category and promote Japanese whisky have garnered him praise, including the highest possible honour for a person in the international whisky industry, that is the induction into the World Whisky Awards Hall of Fame.

Despite his accolades and Hall of Fame induction, the 61-year-old shows no signs of slowing down. “It is now the most rewarding time in my career, and I enjoy what I do,” Jota-san tells us.

This month, we had the rare opportunity to meet Jota-san. We discussed his illustrious career, his formative experiences and his thoughts on the future of Japanese whisky. Jota-san, who calls Kyoto his hometown, also revealed how Kyoto’s rich cultural heritage, known for its dedication to balance, harmony, and refined craftsmanship, might have shaped his approach to creating a Japanese whisky. He also shared with us how grain whiskey has an unusually vital role in Fuji Distillery’s blends.

Join us below for this fascinating discussion with one of Japanese whisky’s most important visionaries!

Follow Fuji Whisky & Jota-san: Official Distillery Website | Instagram @jota_tanaka

“Fuji has purity in flavor and vivid characters that come in soft waves in harmony, which you cannot find in blended whisky in general…It embodies our quality policy of making "Clean & Estery" whisky.”

–Jota-san, describing the distinctive style and approach towards making Fuji’s whiskies.

88B: Hailing from Kyoto, a historic cultural capital famed for its preservation of traditional Japanese cuisine, monuments, rituals, how has this influenced your philosophy towards whiskymaking?

Jota: Having grown up right across the street from a sake brewery in the Fushimi District, a famous sake region, the tradition, food culture, and craftsmanship have always been close to me and have considerably impacted me.

It has become a reference point for me in thinking about what “Japanese-ness” is, rather than just whisky-making. I believe that in future product development, elements inspired by the art, craftsmanship, and culture that originated in Kyoto will also be incorporated.

88B: Do you recall the first moment you knew you had wanted to pursue a career in crafting fine alcoholic beverages?　

Jota: Working in the alcohol Industry was one of my options when I joined Kirin Brewery Co., Ltd.

I chose Kirin Brewery because I saw a chance to work overseas. Kirin Brewery advocated internationalism and sought to diversify its business.

My first sincere desire to craft fine alcoholic beverages came after I became fascinated with winemaking in Napa.

88B: You then went on to pursue academic degrees specializing in Agriculture in Hokkaido University. What were your considerations towards heading up north of Japan to study there?

Jota: One of the reasons I chose Hokkaido University was because I loved the famous words of Dr. William S. Clark, the founder of Hokkaido University, "Boys, be ambitious!" since I was in junior high school.

The summer of my sophomore year in high school, I visited the university and was fascinated by the beauty of its campus's green grass and trees. And the decisive kicker was meeting a professor in the Department of Agricultural Chemistry, which was one of the purposes of the visit.

88B: Thereafter you joined Kirin and was whisked away to Napa Valley to work with Raymond Vineyards, from which you’ve mentioned that you took away some insights from the wine practice – terroir, food pairing and even the use of appropriate glassware, which now Fuji Whisky has its own Riedel Veritas Sauvignon Blanc glass accompaniment.

What was the highlight of your time working with wines and what are some lessons from the wine trade that you would love to see exported to whiskies?

Jota: There are so many lessons it's hard to pick a highlight.

What inspired me spiritually was the sense of camaraderie and the spirit of mutual aid, in my words, "Fellowship." This mindset and principle of action are common to the whisky industry, and I would like to continue to cherish it.

Wine is clothed in history and culture and has become a part of people's lives. Whisky has yet to become a part of people's lives, and few people play a role in communicating the appeal of whisky. I want to make whisky more like wine, a part of people's lives.

88B: You later returned to America again, this time to Kirin’s then-newly acquired Four Roses Distillery.

During your time there, you not only helped create the Four Roses Small Batch (which we’re big fans of!), but also got to know many great American distillers from Jim Rutledge and Wild Turkey’s Jimmy Russell. You also saw how the Bourbon-makers maintained a tight-knit community. What were some of the best advice you received from these distilling legends?

Jota: Passion and Fellowship are the keys to making high-quality Bourbon. I also received advice on building a good brand, and growing a business.

“Whisky blending is more than just blending multiple whiskies. It requires a broad perspective, philosophy, and experience.”

88B: What about in Japan’s relatively competitive world of whiskymaking? Do you see any spirit of collaboration amongst whisky distillers in Japan? (E.g. Working with the JSLMA to improve standards for Japanese Whisky?)

Jota: I see a great spirit of collaboration among the whisky distillery in Japan. I don’t see any difference between Japan and the rest of the whisky industries in the world.

The lack of business practices for exchanging or selling whisky within the industry may give the impression of competitiveness. However, business practices differ because of how the Japanese whisky industry has developed and the various industry conditions.

Working with the JSLMA is just one of examples. The interaction among whisky makers is quite active, except that the trade of whisky is not a commercial practice.

Sooner or later you will notice that our industry interactions are very active.

“Unlike any other distillery in the world, we are the only distillery where malt whisky and various grain whiskey are made on-site.”

88B: Having been everything from a product development manager to a brand manager across various wine vineyards and whiskey distilleries, you are someone with so many different perspectives! How do you feel this influences your whisky blending and what are some of the biggest lessons you’ve learnt through your career?

Jota: The most important thing is that if you look at whisky, which has a long history and tradition, from a different perspective, you will discover a lot of charms that are not yet known.

I am very fortunate to have had experiences in the various fields you mentioned. I was able to broaden my perspective before working in the whisky industry, which is why I can create & promote attractive whiskies.

Whisky blending is more than just blending multiple whiskies. It requires a broad perspective, philosophy, and experience. I hope customers can sense my approach, attitude, and passion towards whisky-making is directly reflected in the whisky.

88B: What continues to drive you everyday and keeps you motivated? What is your ultimate dream you would like to achieve and how will you know you have reached it?

Jota: It is now the most rewarding time in my career, and I enjoy what I do.

After a difficult and painful time in the whisky market, we have seen a bright light in the future of our business. I feel happy working on whisky-making and brand-building with my fellows who share the same goals.

Instead of getting tired, the more I have opportunities to explain our Fuji Whisky to customers, the more energy I get from their happy reactions.

My vision is that in 20 years, the "Fuji" brand will be in a state where it is loved by many people worldwide. To achieve this, I still want to evolve the whisky of Fuji Gotemba Distillery and make more attractive whisky products for customers to enjoy.

I don't have an ultimate dream. I would be thrilled if as many people as possible feel that their world has expanded, that they got inspired, and that their lives have become more joyful after encountering Fuji Whisky. I would rather call it my ambition.

 

"My vision is that in 20 years, the "Fuji" brand will be in a state where it is loved by many people worldwide."

88B: Let’s now talk about Fuji Whisky and your work there. Fuji Whisky has gone through many changes. It is a storied distillery with great history. On its 50^th Anniversary – what is your wish for the distillery and what does the distillery mean to you personally?

Jota: As we celebrate our 50th anniversary, we have been looking back at the past and considering what we want to be in for the next 100th anniversary.

We have been discussing the ideal state of whisky-making and distilleries for itself for the next 20 years and 50 years with the people involved.

Fuji Gotemba Distillery is the spiritual home of all those involved in the whisky business, and I continue to think about what I should do to evolve the distillery steadily. I believe I play a part in setting the course for the future.

88B: Fuji Whiskey is unique for pioneering the category of “Single Blended” – meaning both malt and grain whiskies are crafted in the same distillery, giving fans a true taste of a single point of origin. It is one of the exceptionally small handful of distilleries able to do so.

How would you describe Fuji’s taste differences relative to conventional Blended Whisky? Could you tell us what your thoughts were as you came to realise you were on the cusp of a new category?

Jota: Fuji has purity in flavor and vivid characters that come in soft waves in harmony, which you cannot find in blended whisky in general.

The difference from other conventional blends is not only in their flavor style but also in their concept, which is the essential difference. The taste is, first and foremost, about the flavors' clarity or purity and vibrancy. It embodies our quality policy of making "Clean & Estery" whisky.

We have been making this unique blended style for decades. Once again, looking back at the history and state of the global whisky industry, we realize the significance and characteristics of our existence. Unlike any other distillery in the world, we are the only distillery where malt whisky and various grain whiskey are made on-site. (Simply making malt and grain whiskey in one distillery is almost unheard of.) And most importantly, the fact that they do everything from mashing to bottling is unparalleled anywhere in the world.

No other whisky in the world is made by the same craftsmen, using the same water source, and distilling and aging all under the same environment. We realized and came up with the essential concept of this Single Blended is "the terroir of the land and time in which the whiskies have been nurtured."

“I am amazed at how the more I add the grain whisky to the blend, the sweeter and more flavorful the blend becomes.”

88B: As we know, there are very few grain whisky producers in Japan, making your Fuji whiskies a very valuable asset. Fuji’s grain whiskies are perhaps the most expertly crafted, with distillation stills the only of its kind outside of North America.

How does this shape Fuji Whisky’s identity now and into the future? Will the focus over time nonetheless shift to the newly minted Single Blended expressions?

Jota: We are committed to and proud of our grain whiskey and consider it our uniqueness.

There is also room to evolve the grain whiskey of today.

Fuji Gotemba Distillery's uniqueness is that malt and grain whiskies are produced in one place. Our flagship brand, "Fuji," will have three types: single grain, single blend, and then single malt whisky, which will be a new addition to the Fuji range.

Therefore, rather than shifting from single grain to single blend, these three types will form the pillars of the Fuji brand.

88B: Fans of Fuji got a chance to play blender for a little bit with “The Housky” Original Blend Kit released back in 2014. However, our experience certainly does not compare to a Master Blender’s experience!

Could you guide us through your creative process when blending? What are some of the things that most inspire you?

Jota: I am amazed that you know about “The Housky” Blend Kit.

The essential things in blending are preliminary conceptual design (deciding what kind of thoughts to put into it and what type of flavor to aim for) and trial and error (not knowing without trying).

Of course, the blender needs to know the characteristics and properties of each whisky component. Still, you should also deepen your understanding of the characteristics of each whisky by tasting it first.

One thing that inspires me in blending is that the quietest of whiskies, the grain whisky, has a vital role in the blend. On its own, the grain whiskey is a light and delicate flavor type of whiskey.

To a certain extent, I am amazed at how the more I add the grain whisky to the blend, the sweeter and more flavorful the blend becomes.

88B: You’re part of the JSLMA committee that pushed for greater transparency with regards to labelling rules for authentic Japanese whiskies, which will of course help to protect the quality and reputation of Japanese whiskies and in turn grow the category.

Do you think that there is more that can be done? (E.g. Some people suggested the use of standardized stickers or labels on bottles that comply with the new rules.)

Jota: What we should focus on most now is how to make people worldwide aware of the labeling standards set by JSLMA and eliminate counterfeit products from the market.

88B: While the new JSLMA rules are clear about what can be classified as Japanese whiskies, one aspect that is not specified is the use of oak casks, which leaves room for distilleries to use other local woods for maturation such as Cedar (Sugi) or Cypress (Hinoki). Do you think this will be a trend that distilleries in Japan might tap into to standout?

Jota: Some people have started to create whisky using the wood you mentioned, but I feel it is not suitable for whisky, and I do not think it can be a trend.

However, we did not limit the definition to oak because we wanted a certain standard for whisky-making and some freedom to challenge whisky-making to some extent.

88B: It is said that it takes 50 years for snow on Mt Fuji to eventually become water at the foot of the famous mountain – water which goes into Fuji Whisky. Which means that this year, in theory, snow that first fell on the mountain when the distillery was built would make its way into Fuji Whisky today. That’s a long way the distillery has come!

Jota: Fuji Gotemba Distillery is nestled only 12 km from the peak of Mt. Fuji. There is a particular reason why it takes 50 years for the rain and snow that falls on Mt. Fuji to reach the distillery's underground aquifer.

Mt. Fuji consists of volcanic ash, and the structure of each tiny ash particle is spongy, so water is absorbed/trapped into the ash and does not flow through it quickly.

Over 50 years, the water reaches the distillery as pure, soft, and pristine water after being refined and filtered by Mt. Fuji.

88B: Along the way, there’ve been many interesting expressions that have come and gone from the distillery – the Distiller’s Select, the Evermore, more recently, the Fuji Sanroku Non-Chill Filtered 50 Degrees, just to name some.

Is there any past whisky expression that you would love to revive and bring back?

Jota: While we look back on the past brands, we will continue introducing new expressions under the Fuji brand so that people can enjoy the potential of the Fuji Gotemba Distillery in the future.

88B: You’re known to be great with pairing your whiskies with food. What are some of the most surprising food pairings you’ve found that works very well and we should definitely try?

Jota: Not an amazing pairing, but I would recommend root vegetable dishes, such as "Chikuzen-ni" (a genuinely Japanese dish!) or roasted root vegetables.

One thing that will surprise the Japanese is "Ohagi" (rice cakes)!  It is a traditional dessert with sweet bean paste.

88B: Having spent many decades making whiskies, how do you ensure you’re pushing the boundaries of what you know about whiskies? What is your favorite way to enjoy whisky?

Jota: Interacting with people who have no connection to whiskey is inspiring and surprising.

Rather than a favorite way to enjoy whisky, the most enjoyable part is discovering new aromas and tastes of each whisky by changing the glassware, how it is served, and how it is enjoyed.

88B: You’ve achieved much success and garnered many awards recognizing your contribution to the craft of whiskymaking. How would you describe yourself? What would you like to be known as?

Jota: I don't think I have yet to achieve as much as you might think, but I am grateful that I am recognized as unique in the whisky industry and have made some contributions.

I would be pleased if people said, "Jota made the whisky industry more exciting and made whisky more appealing.

88B: How do you feel when you see a bottle of Fuji Whisky at a bar you’ve visited for the first time? Could you describe your feelings to us?

Jota: To use an analogy, I feel as happy as witnessing my child being cared for by everyone in that bar.

88B: If your friends are coming to Kyoto for a weekend and would like the true local experience, where would you recommend they go to – in terms of things to see, do, drink and eat?

Jota: I recommend visiting a temple in Kyoto, relaxing in the garden within its precincts, and visiting a local sake brewery in Fushimi and enjoying sake that can only be available by pairing it with local cuisine.

88B: We also hear you’re an avid fly fisher particularly for Great Brown Trout. Could you recommend us your favorite spot to go flyfishing?

Jota: Unfortunately, there is no excellent flyfishing areas in Japan.

From my humble experience, the Green River in Utah is an ideal place to fly fish for big trout.

88B: Will we ever see the chocolate with Kirin (Fuji) 50 Degrees whisky jelly again?

Jota: Already, you can now enjoy the chocolate with Fuji Sanroku Signature Blend 50 Degrees whisky jelly at the Fuji Gotemba distillery!

It was such a treat having the opportunity to speak to Master Blender Jota Tanaka.

We sincerely thank the Master Blender for taking valuable time out to share his whiskymaking approach and philosophy with us. We are also glad to be able to share a dram with him in Singapore and learn a little bit more about his formative experiences!

Follow Fuji Whisky & Jota-san: Official Distillery Website | Instagram @jota_tanaka

Read about our Fuji Whisky masterclass with Jota-san here

@CharsiuCharlie