Appleton Estate, one of Jamaica's oldest functioning rum distillery, has quite a tale to tell, having been around since 1749. Unpretentious and timeless, the distillery sits within the picturesque Nassau Valley. This is home to rich and fertile soils where the Estate cultivates its own sugarcane, and draws spring water from its own limestone spring to produce its rum.

While other Jamaican rums are popularly known for their “slap-you-in-the-face” heat, funkiness and pungency that would remind you of overripe fruits, the rums from Appleton Estate are generally more friendly on the palate even as they are very flavourful. The taste profile walks the fine line between richness and smoothness and tend to be much more balanced and approachable.

We were lucky to be able to have a taste of the latest Hearts Collection 2002 and 1993 rums at the Singapore launch event. Singapore also appears to be the first and only Asian market for the limited release. 

So, what's so special about the Hearts Collection?

It has the distinction of being Appleton Estate's first series of single-marque, 100% pot still rums. Let's break that “marque” down a little.

Caribbean rum distilleries are huge operations and tend to be very versatile, producing a large variety of distillates, from light bodied rums (usually with column stills) to very heavy and flavourful rums (usually with traditional pot stills). A rum marque is essentially a unique "recipe code" a distillery uses to track the different styles of rum it is capable of producing.

The differences between rum marques range from the ester strength (intensity of flavour) to the ingredients used (molasses or sugar cane juice), the fermentation method (duration or yeast used), and the distillation method (whether pot still or column still). All these elements join forces to create the distinct personality of each rum marque.

For example, as far as we are aware, these are the publicly known marques from Appleton Estate (differentiated by the grams per hectolitre of alcohol):

• Common Clean - 40-80g/hL
• Plummer - 180g/hL
• Wedderburn - 200g/hL
• Light Continental - 400-700g/hL and
• Continental - 900-1600g/hL

For the most part, most Caribbean rum distilleries including Appleton Estate, would blend different rum marques together to produce the familiar core rum expressions for the mass market consumer.

However, the Hearts Collection is the first and only series from Appleton made with single marque 100% pot still rums, and selected from the best vintages by Master Blender Joy Spence.

These pot still rums showcase a weightier, thicker texture when contrasted with column-still rums, which have been stripped of rich flavour compounds. According to Appleton, it is the use of these pot stills that imparts the brand’s signature orange peel top note to each expression.

If you’re a rum geek, you should note this is a co-bottling collaboration with Luca Gargano, owner of Velier SpA and one of the world's most influential rum experts, deeply respected for many of the rums he has bottled. Rum enthusiasts would notice that the Hearts Collection bottles sport Velier's iconic black stout bottles that reflect the exclusivity of the collection.

As mentioned, these are single marque pot still rums, and are distilled using traditional Scottish Forsyth pot stills. However, one thing Joy Spence keeps mum about is the marques used for each bottling, a bit of a tease for the rum geeks out there.

Finally, the distillate is matured right in the tropical heat of Jamaica. Rums age much quicker when the process happens in a hot climate like Jamaica's as opposed to Continental aging in Europe (which is also common practice for the industry). In the Caribbean, higher temperatures and humidity accelerate the interaction between the rum and the oak, imbuing the spirit with complex flavours within a few short years. The trade-off is that tropically-aged have greater loss from evaporation (a phenomenon known as Angel's Share). This is why tropical-aging of rums is often done more sparingly compared to the aging of rum or whiskies in the colder climates of Europe.

Rums aged for over two decades in the tropics would tend to exhibit significant depth and richness. The Hearts Collection now consists of seven releases, including the newly launched 1993 and 2002 vintages which are 29 and 20 years old respectively – a really venerable age for tropically-aged rums.

Let’s give them a taste!

Appleton Estate 2002, 20 Years Old, Hearts Collection, 63% ABV, Total Congeners 834 g/hLAA – Review

Colour: Deep copper.

Nose: Bursting with clarity and brightness, the first scent offers a pleasing trail mix of apricots, candied orange, dark brown sugar, toasted nuts and vanilla, underscored by a whisper of leather polish.

10 seconds of gently swirling the liquid opens up quite an array of aromas, calling to mind the Jungle Bird cocktail I had during pre-drinks with its fresh pineapple juice, and sweet, chewy 7D Dried Mango slices from the Philippines. A definite herbaceous character is finely woven into a robust sweet melody of liquorice and Nin Jiom Pei Pa Koa, further accented by fresh cut grass and perilla leaves.

Palate: On first sip, the rum is very lively and abundant with sweetness, as well as a zesty nip on the tongue. This initial sensation unveils a profile of fusel oil, the heat of pepper and cloves, which, when combined with a touch of sweetness, brings forth visions of fizzy ginger ale.

As heat quickly fades, the intensity softens to a deep, honeyed note with a slight hint of coconut, with a slight smoky trace of caramelised sugar, orange marmalade, and faint undertones of dried lychees. The palate also continues to evolve quite a bit, gently introducing very mild classic banana notes – the calling card of Jamaican rums, and light notes of lime juice.

Finish: The finale is sweet and clean, of moderate length. The Pei Pa Koa makes a syrupy reappearance, along with caramel and generous helpings of honey. There's a fleeting sweet brightness of F&N Cherryade, and light impressions of dry wood, tobacco, a discernible touch of dark chocolate, and a slightly drying sensation on the tongue.

My Thoughts: This rum really outclasses regular rum blends with its full depth, tastiness, weight and flavour. The real charm lies in the fact that despite two decades of tropical aging, it retains its vibrancy and brightly hued tropical flavours, enhanced by a gentle ginger-ale like kick.

This makes for a mature rum that stops short of being excessively oaky. It also delicately introduces a trace of the iconic Jamaican rum funk, making it a very accessible choice for those unfamiliar to it still. Both rum connoisseurs and newcomers will find this rum appealing, and this expression really lives up to the Hearts Collection hype. 

Appleton Estate 1993, 29 Years Old, Hearts Collection, 63% ABV, Total Congeners 1,456g/hLAA – Review

Colour: Deep copper.

Nose: Mirroring the aroma profile of the 2002 vintage, but leaning towards a denser, creamier side. The notes of apricots are more pronounced, harmonised with a deepened intensity of dark brown sugar. There are richer aromas of caramel, custard-like crème brulee and much more present are also warming baking spices, such as cinnamon and nutmeg. There's a soft warmth, calling to mind a freshly brewed hot cinnamon chai latte. There are also traces of banana bread and freshly ground coffee.

Palate: The first sip reveals a very mellow smoothness – a shift away from the zinginess and lively acidity of the 2002. The palate follows the nose closely with substantial flavours of brown sugar, generous helpings of caramel, Werther’s Original candies and a hint of salted butterscotch.

The caramel and creaminess take center stage here, with slightly more focused profile than its 2002 sibling. With additional swirling and a bit of rest in the glass, light touches of sarsaparilla and vanilla emerge, reminiscent of a root beer float with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. As the rum still rests, some notes of fried plantains and bitter chocolate make their debut.

Finish: Long, sweet and unctuous, leaving a lasting impression of Nin Jiom Pei Pa Koa on the back palate. Finally, the presence of dry oak and warming heat emerges, balancing the sweetness.

My Thoughts: This is one of the most lusciously flavoured rums I've encountered – it’s really a sticky date pudding in a glass. Distinct from the already approachable 2002 edition, this expression is even more welcoming, with a neat-absence of any spiciness or pepperiness on the nose or palate.

Quite pleasing in all aspects, this is another worthy addition to the Hearts Collection.

Overall thoughts

Both expressions from the Appleton Estate Hearts Collection are unanimously well-received. But do I have a favourite between the two?

I believe the 29-year-old 1993 edition, with its dessert-like richness and sumptuous creaminess, would generally win the hearts of beginner rum drinkers. Its velvety smoothness and comforting familiar flavours make it an easy favourite for those still venturing into the diverse, potentially intimidating universe of rum.

In contrast, I prefer the 20-year-old 2002 variant which would appeal slightly more to those looking for more character and liveliness. This expression presents a good balance between the dimensions of aromatic oak-aged notes and the refreshing burst of tropical fruit flavours. In my view, its complexity and liveliness makes this a drink that you won’t easily get tired of. One could easily revisit time and time again without ever tiring of its layered character.

So, it seems that Master Blender Joy Spence and Luca Gargano have curated an intriguing rum experience in their Hearts Collection, catering to different palates at both ends of the spectrum.

| You can grab a bottle of the Appleton Hearts 20 YO (2002) here.

| The Appleton Hearts 29 YO (1993) can be found here.

@CharsiuCharlie