Founded in 2008, Pierde Almas Mezcal is a well-regarded craft mezcal brand, and a collaboration between its American founder, Jonathan Barbieri and the Sanchez distiller family from San Baltazar Chichicapam, a town in Oaxaca, Mexico. An artist by vocation, Jonathan initially went to Mexico not in pursuit of the perfect spirit, but rather the perfect canvas. However, what he discovered was a tapestry of experiences that not only inspired many of his paintings, but also the birth of Pierde Almas Mezcal.

Jonathan had expected to be in Oaxaca for just 6 months, before moving on to Barcelona. But Oaxaca had other plans for him. It started with a 12 hour bus ride that felt like an eternity for Jonathan, which led Jonathan to miss his creature comforts and wonder if leaving the States was such a good idea after all. Being a film geek, he bemoaned the fact that he would no longer be able to watch films in his favourite movie theatres.

Midway through his journey, the bus encountered a chilling accident, pushing a taxi off a cliff right before Jonathan's eyes. People were flung out of their vehicles. The scene was intense, raw, and brutally real, and touched the artistic side of Jonathan. And that’s when he realised: who needs movies when one could witness profound human drama right here in Mexico? He decided to make Oaxaca his home. What was originally a 6-month stay became a 30-year-plus residence for Jonathan.

Mezcals, for Jonathan, was a way to understand the people of Mexico better. Before settling in Oaxaca's capital city, Jonathan spent time in two villages, Asunción Etla and Reyes Etla. And it’s here that he realized the significance of mezcal. It’s a reflection of the culture, the traditions, and the families who’ve been crafting it for generations. It's a drink that celebrates life's milestones, used to celebrate births, weddings to the everyday joys. For the locals, festivities and traditions aren't just annual events; they're a way of life.

Over time, as he painted and embraced Oaxacan life, Jonathan grew close to a family running a palenque (mezcal distillery). This family welcomed him as one of their own. And though Pierde Almas started out as a personal passion project where he bottled mezcals for his friends and family, he eventually decided to put down his paintbrush and focus on turning it into a full-fledged business.

The name “Pierde Almas,” directly translating to “a loser of souls,” traces back to Jonathan’s unforgettable visit to a cantina (a bar) in Mexico. Situated atop a hill, this dilapidated wooden hut bore the marks of years gone by, with a dirt floor and tree stumps for seats. The bar counter was a standout pink dresser adorned with golden filigree which sat as the room's centerpiece. Here, amidst this backdrop of simplicity, stood a bartender unlike any other.

The locals called the old bartender “El Pierde Almas.” The hunchback stood no taller than 1.4 metres, had only one arm, was blind in one eye and missing a few teeth. The other patrons in that cantina looked equally distinctive, each with a unique story to tell, evident in their appearance, demeanour, conversations and even their silences.

The cantina inspired a series of 25 paintings which he later exhibited in New York. Jonathan called his brand “Pierde Almas Mezcal,” paying homage to that cantina experience and its unusual bartender.

While Pierde Almas is deeply rooted in tradition, it's also forward-thinking. Jonathan is a big believer in sustainability and cherishes the environment. He’s so committed that he bagged a grant from the Mexican government for a reforestation project for Tobalá, a type of agave used by Pierde Almas’ palenque. Jonathan claimed to have received the grant due to the genuine respect and care that his palenque has shown for the local habitat.

With this captivating origin story out of the way, let’s have a closer look at the spirit. Last month, I headed down to Chimichanga Little India. I was recommended to taste their premium agave spirit flight which included this Pierde Almas Pechuga.

Chimichanga's Little India outlet has a rather accessible menu of tequila or mezcal flights at a very affordable price. It's well worth looking into this if you've been exploring agave spirits.

Pierde Almas releases several styles of mezcal including the Tobaziche, Tobalá, Mexicano and a Pechuga, each of them showcasing a different wild variety of agave (the pechuga is made with Espadin agave).

They also produce a higher-end, rarer variant of the Pechuga, called coñejo, which is made with wild rabbit meat. All their spirits are distilled to at least 50% ABV, but due to the artisanal nature of their production, the ABV of each lot may vary slightly.

And with that, let’s have a taste of the iconic Pechuga style expression from Pierde Almas. This mezcal uses Espadin agave, and is triple-distilled in a pot still with locally-grown fruits and the breast of a turkey. Pechuga expressions are also quite limited because it is only produced in the month of November when the specific heirloom fruits are in season.

Let’s give this a taste.

Pierde Almas Pechuga, Espadín, Lote 11-P, 51% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Colour: Colourless

Nose: There's a delicate smokiness that reminds me of temple incense wafting in the air. Close behind, I pick up hints of lemon oil, and the subtle aroma of a Lemon-flavoured car fragrance. There’s a freshness coming through reminiscent of a lime daiquiri and crisp cucumbers. What’s great is that it’s also very soft on the nose, making the nosing experience notably smooth.

Palate: But my first sip caught me slightly off-guard with its lively spice, coupled with a rich ashiness - think of a potent Ardbeg whisky. The texture is fantastic - it's oily and generously coats the tongue. As I swirl it around in the mouth, mild sweetness emerges with undertones of honey, punctuated by zesty citrus peels that bites.

A herbaceous touch intertwined with the spiciness reminds me of anise seeds. And just when I thought I’ve pinned down its character, there's this really nice gentle milky-sweetness, bringing to mind almond milk and almond tofu dessert (杏仁豆腐).

Finish: Long and slightly rooty. As it trails down, there's a pleasant mild sweetness of vanilla and cream, shadowed by that aromatic smokiness and rosemary-like piney woodiness. Right at the end there’s even some hints of dried, earthy, rooty traditional Chinese medicine herbs, like tong-kui in soup (当归).

My Thoughts: 

❤️‍🔥 This is really lively and packed with character, although there’s a bit of heat to get used to for new drinkers.

This mezcal is really something else, and my favourite of the flight at Chimichanga. It's packed with character and depth, though I'll admit, it's not the go-to for those dipping their toes into the mezcal scene for the first time.

It has a very respectable layered complexity, and an aromatic smokiness that will entice Islay whiskies lovers or even those who enjoy cigars. It’s robust and punchy, with a spiciness that makes it a treat for mezcal enthusiasts.

Given its punchy, lively and smoky character, I also really think it’s something right up the alley of Ardbeg whisky fans. If you’re up for an authentic mezcal adventure, Pierde Almas Pechuga would be your ticket.

@CharsiuCharlie