There’s been an emerging trend where we see a convergence between the whisky and art world. This seems to have begun with a niche group of European independent bottlers like La Maison du Whisky which has its famous “Artist” series where we see a collection of coveted black bottlings adorned with specially commissioned paintings from renowned artists. Then there's Velier, the respected Italian rum bottler who have partnered with Magnum Photos to release a series of limited-edition bottlings featuring iconic photographs from Elliot Erwitt. The cult Japanese Chichibu has also been collaborating with Japanese artists to design art labels for their Whisky Live exclusive whiskies year after year.

So it’s no surprise that this trend is catching on with the mainstream. The granddad of Japanese whiskies, Suntory, has decided to join the party with their Kogei Collection. The name itself, "Kogei," (or 工芸) meaning "artisan craft," tells you most of what you need to know about this series. This new collection focuses on collaborations with Japanese traditional craft artisans in label design of the whiskies.

The inaugural 2024 Kogei Collection focuses on Japanese Kimono art, featuring a collaboration with Kyoto's Chiso Kimono House, which is highly regarded for creating fine Japanese kimonos using the Kyo-Yuzen dyeing technique since 1555.

(Source: Atelier Ikiwa)

The Kyo-Yuzen technique was groundbreaking in its time, as it involved applying paint dye directly onto cloth in a manner that allowed for very precise and thin lines that are impossible to achieve even with embroidery. This helped artists create uniquely Japanese designs and motifs that feature vibrant blurs and gradation gradients (known as Bokashi-zome).

In Suntory’s case Chiso's patternmakers have been enlisted to apply Bokashi-zome to depict the story of Yamazaki and Hakushu whisky, which is then applied onto washi paper that forms the whisky bottles' labels and packaging box.

The Yamazaki Peated Malt Spanish Oak features a depiction of the serenity of three merging rivers around the distillery that evoke a sense of calm, with gold stamps adding elegance and is reminiscent of drifting clouds.

The Hakushu Peated Malt Spanish Oak features a verdant mountainside range that mirrors the lush Japanese Southern Alps that surround the distillery, as well as silver stamps that evoke forest clouds and threads reminiscent of kimonos.

The liquid itself seems evident – a rerun of what we’ve seen in past limited edition offerings (which are now very expensive on the secondary market) of peated malt whisky from either distillery that have been matured in ex-Sherry Spanish Oak. Both expressions have been sold in travel retail boutiques around the world including at Singapore’s Changi Airport Terminal 3.

Once again, we’re grateful to a fellow enthusiast in the community who managed to procure the set, popped them open and made drams available to more of us!

Yamazaki Peated Malt Spanish Oak, Kogei Collection 2024, 43% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Rich, syrupy and spiced. Reveals warm, spiced Oloroso sherry red fruit notes like raspberries, raisins, dried prunes and mulled wine. Fruitiness is soon joined toffee and more oak spices, with anise and black pepper adding a subtle warmth. In the background are some hints of wood polish (ethyl acetate) and a faint smokiness (closer to charred wood, rather than peat) linger in the background, bringing to mind some well-aged bourbons and rums.

Some tertiary notes of liquorice and a touch of medicinality, like Woods cough syrup, add some complexity without overpowering the fruit-forward character. The combination of sweetness and lightly bitter oak tannins creates this impression of a rich Thai milk tea. I also get some delicate floral notes of roses and some feinty, lightly prickly impressions that add life without overpowering.

Palate: Rich and round, and offers an awesome velvety texture you don’t often get. It’s rather dense. Syrupy, demerara sugar and honeyed sweetness, caramel, and warming spices coat the tongue, followed by a pronounced liquorice and mint character. Powerful oak spices would gradually build, intermingling with dried red fruits, cranberries, and walnuts, culminating in a moreish Christmas cake impression.

Finish: Syrupy sweetness persists through the finish, with lingering honey notes and a warm, lightly herbaceous touch. A gentle warmth stays on the palate, accompanied by cocoa powder dryness. It’s got that classic Yamazaki temple incense, much less subtle but in fact amped with dry ash notes emerging at the back, along with roasted malt and savoury roasted chestnuts.

My Thoughts

This Yamazaki Peated Malt Spanish Oak is incredibly flavourful and warming, and is quite possibly one of the tastier special NAS releases from Yamazaki we’ve encountered.

The nose showcases a remarkable maturity that reminds me of aged port. The palate is a delight – punchy, rounded, velvety texture, opening with a lovely honeyed sweetness that gradually intensifies along with wood spice. The overall impression is one of syrupiness and roundness, with the weight of the spirit beautifully balancing the dimensions of smoke.

The only suggestion I’d make is to consider tasting this along with several drops of mineral water. The nose is complex, although the palate seems really dense and tightly wound. A bit of water may loosen up the esters and unlike a bit more fruitiness.

Hakushu Peated Malt Spanish Oak, Kogei Collection 2024, 43% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Rich and spiced, the aroma shares similarities with the Yamazaki Kogei, but with a much lighter and brighter disposition. Fresher notes of orchard fruits like apricots and tinned peaches mingle with this bright distinctive sweetness-smokiness of honey baked ham. Brown sugar and vanilla syrup intertwines with grilled lemons, with the zestiness of lemon peel particularly prominent. It’s also significantly mintier and greener than the Yamazaki with more root-like herbaceousness, with hints of sarsaparilla and a touch of iodine that reminds me of Islay Scotch. Some minor minerality and chalk offering a fresh counterpoint to the backbone of aged oak sweetness.

Palate: Rich and sweet, but medium-bodied and more restrained than the Yamazaki in both weight and texture. Opens with toffee and oak notes, supported by a fresher, crisper Hakushu spirit. Again, orchard fruits like apples and pears make a reappearance, along with singed orange peels and a pronounced nippy citrus zestiness, quickly turning to dominant spices of pepper and spearmint. Some subtle chalkiness.

Finish: Just a touch of dried fruits of raisins, prunes and dried figs along with a long, herbaceous finish, revealing more spearmint, tobacco leaves, heavy ashiness and dry hay lingering.

My Thoughts:

The Hakushu Peated Malt Spanish Oak is also undeniably flavourful and warming. The initial notes are quite similar to the Yamazaki, but in the mouth, the lighter-bodied spirit and brighter character become immediately apparent. This lighter profile allows much of the peat to shine through, creating a very Caol Ila impression. All in all, it’s a nice dense Sherry-forward Hakushu with an impressive lushness and depth.

While it's an intriguing experiment to add peat to the Hakushu, I do feel that the distillery's signature clean, candied sweetness and mintiness is still best showcased in unpeated expressions.

Final Thoughts

Both are very solid offerings, though I have to say the Yamazaki takes the cake. Having previously experienced the Yamazaki Smoky Batch and Yamazaki Story of the Distillery, I can confidently say that Suntory has truly upped their game with this edition. The Yamazaki Kogei offers a rich, flavourful, and evocative Spanish oak influence that translates beautifully from aroma to palate, with the richer Yamazaki spirit providing a good foundation. 

The Hakushu is an enjoyable and tasty offering in its own right, though I feel that if you are a fan of the classic Hakushu, you may find the delicateness of the Hakushu spirit somewhat overshadowed by the generous dose of peat and Spanish oak. It’s got this Japanese-Islay whisky style, which, while interesting, masks some of the impressive nuances (bright citrus and white grapes) that I typically enjoy in Hakushu. In my opinion, these influences are better supported by a Yamazaki.

All in all, these are two remarkable NAS releases that I’d highly recommend whether you’re a Suntory junkie or just enjoy a good Sherry bomb whisky. And while the age hasn’t been given, my nose and palate tells me there’s considerable maturity. I wouldn't be surprised if the average age of the whiskies in these bottles is 10-12 years old.

@CharsiuCharlie