I think we should all be paying attention to what could be a very exciting time for blended products. 

Blends are seemingly all the rage right now in the Scotch Whisky world. Amidst rising prices amongst independent bottlings caused by the spiralling cost of casks, to the premiumisation of brands and official bottlings, many enthusiasts have turned to blends as an affordable and, perhaps more importantly, approachable alternative. 

The poor reputation that blends previously enjoyed, as single malts less exciting, less dignified cousin, is being challenged and stripped away. More and more companies, many who have built reputations and businesses around premium single malt, with all the prestige and grandeur that they command, are entering the blending game with products of their own, challenging perceptions of a category that previously was condemned to long, mixed drinks and staple supermarket brands.

Adelphi recently released its blend Macleans Nose to the approval and praise of the whisky community. Incredibly well-priced and receiving excellent reviews for its flavour, the reception it received clearly shows a growing appetite for both quality in this category and the value of blends as an affordable alternative to increasingly inaccessible single malts. And it isn't just smaller, independent brands that seem to be getting behind the rise of blends, the larger companies that dominate this industry seem to be placing more and more of an emphasis of their blended whisky offerings. Now it’s no secret that they always have focused on blends and that the vast majority of their sales have historically been that of blends. In my days as a Diageo-paid tour guide in Edinburgh we were well aware of the importance historically (and currently) of blends to the industry, but recently there seems to have been a renewed focus on blends as a category. The multi-million pound investment into the Johnnie Walker Princes Street Centre in Edinburgh seems evidence enough of this. The cynic in me says that this focus is to widen the appeal, make more sales, premiumise a product so they can increase the cost and thus their margins, but it appears that there is a genuine focus on blends as an accessible, approachable, and above all exciting offering to both seasoned whisky enthusiasts, and people new to the category. 

There seems to be a new focus on the "story" behind Johnnie Walker as well, a desire to convey the history as well where it fits into the world today. The lack of a story is something that has always placed single malts ahead of blends for me. When drinking single malt, part of the experience is an understanding of where it has come from and why it is different from its counterparts. The distillery, the age statement if there is one, the cask type, the vintage; all these factors inform not only our purchasing decisions, but also our preconceptions and appreciation of the drink. An exploration of the myriad of differences between each single malt, of the varying production methods that have created the distinct flavour is all part of the fun and enjoyment of whisky. Single malts are very much the product of the place they were made, the time over which they were made, and, increasingly, the people who made them. This focus on exploration is often lost with blends its feels, where branding and consistency are the name of the game. Recipes are often hidden and secret, and whilst over the years different flavour profiles do occur within the same brands, often one years out turn is very much like the previous. 

One brand of blended whisky that is really challenging the convention and stereotypes of the category is Woven Whisky. Woven says that they want to make the art of blending "much more human" and "much more experiential". It’s easy to be cynical regarding these terms but Woven actually seem to be achieving these goals. In a crowded market place the bottles stand out; they manage to be distinct whilst remaining tasteful, eye- catching without being garish. Each Experience, as the different bottlings are called, shows the flavour profile in a clear way, and in a way that creates choice between them.

Choosing which Woven expression to pick feels like an experience in itself. The brand is based in Leith, continuing the legacy that Leith has a historic epicentre of the global whisky trade, but also adding to the ever growing, highly acclaimed food and drinks scene growing in the northern area of Edinburgh. And what's more, all this backed up by the fact that within each bottle is some pretty exceptional juice. The first expression I had was their Experience No. 9, and I remember the texture and brightness of it very clearly, even if my specific tasting notes have slipped my mind.

A few weeks ago I picked up a bottle of Experience No. 11, called Peachy, which I have reviewed below, but was equally, if not more impressed by upon first trying. Importantly, both these whiskies, as well as the overall brand, gave the impression that this is very much whisky the has been deliberately made by someone, the product of trial and error, driven by an ethos or a goal. To see such an experimental approach taken towards a category that is beginning to refine its feet and show that it can pack a punch in terms of liquid quality is hugely exciting, and I think we should all be paying attention to what could be a very exciting time for blended products.  

Woven Whisky Experience No.11 – Peachy 

Blended Scotch Whisky, 45.5% 
UK RRP = £54.95 (for 50cl)

Nose: White fruits galore, bags of honey dew melon, overripe nectarines and (unsurprisingly) peaches. A sweet floral note as well, like softened osmanthus.

Palate: Light and Vibrant, definitely a "bright" whisky. White fruit notes again, maybe more floral notes than the nose, with rose petals and lavender detectable. The mouthful is lighter but not thin, there's a good amount of body to carry through these lighter flavours without it becoming "thin".

Finish: Short but effective, classic lingering whisky warmth and a residual moreish note of fleshy fruits and esters.

Comments:

This whisky was perfect for the hot summer evening I tried it on. I enjoyed it neat, but the brightness would lend itself well to a highball. Well worth a glass should one come your way.

All images sourced from Woven Whisky/Freshwater Spirits Company Ltd.

---

Euan Christie Dornoch Distillery Manager & Lead Washback Scrubber To view all reviews from Euan, click here! Follow him: Instagram | Linkedin