From Dairy Farm To Marlborough's Oldest Organic Vineyard In Its Most Sought After Address, How Zephyr Wines Was Created Because Ben Glover Didn’t Want To Wake Up At 5 AM To Milk The Cows

Taste Testing Zephyr Wine's Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, MKIII Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Robber's Dog and Agent Orange

For one winery in Marlborough, New Zealand, making wine might have been a story that almost never was. 

In the cool, wind-swept expanses of Marlborough’s Dillons Point, Zephyr wines is named after the prevailing westerly wind that cuts through the valley. The name also pays homage to Ben's well-loved Mark 3 Ford Zephyr (which he also named one of his wines after).

What it started as, however, was but simply a quaint little diary farm. In this case, we had the honor of Zephyr's very own Ben Glover to tell us this story and bring us through its wines!

As the story goes, Ben's father Owen Glover, his wife Wendy and their four kids were fourth-generation diary farmers on their family farm that runs alongside Marlborough’s Ōpaoa River. Up till then, Owen had dedicated much of his life to tending to a herd of pedigree Friesian cows.

The choice to switch to grape growing was apparently twofold. For one, he realised that his children didn't want to be waking at 5am every day to milk cows. Another, his wife and he both realised that the soils of the region had the potential to create great wines.

In 1985, the lowing of dairy cattle gave way to a new chapter when the family sold the herd. In 1988, they planted their first vines, supplying premium grapes to local producers - vines that would quietly mature over the decades to become the absolute core of the Zephyr estate today. This also etched the Glover name in New Zealand winemaking history as being pioneers of viticulture at Dillon's Point (today Marlborough's most sought after winemaking address), at the northern tip of the country's South Island, just across from North Island's Wellington - Zephyr in fact holds Marlborough's oldest organically farmed vine parcel!

Today, the estate’s fertile loam soils are home to thriving rows of Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc. 

There remain, however, a small herd of cows at any given point in time on the winery grounds, meant for feeding the grounds' staff! Cows are bought, raised and made into a great many amounts of steak, and the cycle is repeated every couple of months!

The family first planted 30 hectares of vines when they pivoted away from dairy farming. This original area which their home is also situated on is tucked into the Wither Hills above the Wairau Lagoons. 

Situated to the southeast of the Wairau Valley floor, the site finds a natural haven in the lee of the hills. This protective barrier shields the vines from unforgiving southerly weather, creating a warm, sheltered pocket where fruit can ripen gently and expressively. The vineyard blocks also mostly face north to maximize sunshine, nestled in a sub-region celebrated as "early country."

Running along the southern boundary of Zephyr's vineyards, the Ōpaoa River serves as the true lifeblood of the estate. Over centuries of seasonal flooding, its sinuous currents have resulted in thick deposits of fertile silt loam (more specifically Kaiapoi silt loam) being left behind, which now anchor the vineyard sites.

The Wairau lagoons also used to flood regularly until the Wairau Diversion was cut in the 1950s, which have contributed to the area's deep silt loam soils. 

Situated just three kilometers from the coast and a mere ten meters above sea level, the vineyard’s maritime proximity infuses the wines with distinct flavors. In choice vintages, this coastal exposure manifests in what is said to be a savory hint of umami and a briny, saline edge.

Today, the river is a thriving ecosystem teeming with plant, bird, and aquatic life - most notably whitebait, which Ben insists is the perfect pairing with the winery's Riesling.

(Source: Winefolly)

This classic silt and clay loams offer excellent water retention that gives the vines a stable, stress-free moisture source during dry summer months. They are also layered with ancient river stones and gravels that ensure superb deep drainage. This has been said to encourage textural weight and palate density in resultant wines without sacrificing freshness. As the vines have access to an ever-present source of nutrients and minerals, they are known to produce fruit with highly expressive, high-toned aromatics underpinned by a distinct mineral presence.

During the growing season, the river corridor is also known cool coastal breezes (hence the name "Zephyr" which means "gentle breeze!) through the vineyards, which dramatically lowers overnight temperatures. This stark diurnal temperature variation (shift between hot and cold) slows down the ripening process, which in turn allows grapes to retain their acidity.

Ben and his wife Susie bought half of the vineyard from Ben’s parents and now farm this organically, while the rest of their plots are leased.  

Beyond the home estate, the family also owns and farms the 28-hectare Alice Mills block in Rapaura. Situated away from the sub-region's notoriously stony, barren soils, this site provides the ideal foundation for the Zephyr Pinot Gris.

For their Pinot Noir, however, they look to the Rawhiri vineyard. Nestled in Marlborough's southern clay hills, Rawhiri offers the dense, structured soil profile that Pinot Noir demands, which coincidentally is also a sharp and necessary contrast to the fertile loam of the lower Wairau floor.

In 2018, Ben acquired the Seresin winery along with "The Brink," a three-hectare block planted in 1992 that stands as Marlborough’s oldest organic vineyard. Renamed "The Coterie", the facility now serves a dual purpose: crafting Zephyr's own portfolio while operating as a premium contract winemaking space for the region.

Ben now runs the winery helped out by his wife Susie, his younger brother Jack and his parents. His younger sister Kate unfortunately passed in 2018 due to cancer, and he honors her with the Bob/Short for Kate line of wines. 

Ben's Ford Zephyr. He is of the firm belief it is one of the best cars ever made. His great grandfather owned a 1955 Zephyr Mark 1, and Ben's father Owen has fond memories of Sundays spent in the back seat, driving to his favourite Marlborough beach.

As for Ben himself, hobbling around the tasting room in a walking boot (Due to an unfortunate accident with aforementioned cows who seemed to know their time was up), his journey into the world of wines was almost fated.

In his words, he "bumbled around" university for the longest time, apparently trying and failing in almost every professional vocation at Canterbury University before heading back to Lincoln Uni in 1994.

Through some process of fate, he "ended up with" a Post Grad Diploma in Oenology and later a Bachelor of Commerce in Marketing.

Ben soon 'properly' launched his career in 1995, joining Wither Hills in 1998 where he eventually rose to chief winemaker. Over the years, he steered acclaimed brands like Lindauer, Huntaway, and Corbans, and later served as Group Winemaker for Accolade Wines New Zealand, overseeing Mud House and Waipara Hills.

A lineup of Zephyr's wines!

Throughout this corporate tenure, Ben quietly nurtured his own family label, debuting Zephyr's first vintage in the UK in 2007. Then, in 2016, he left the corporate world behind to commit to growing the Zephyr brand full-time.

An inaugural Len Evans Scholar in 2001, Ben is also a powerhouse of over two decades of national and international wine judging experience to the table!

Well then, how do his wines taste?

Let's get stuck in!

PS. Zephyr Wines are carried in Singapore by the good folks at TWDC, who brought Ben all the way down to walk us through the wines! And TLDR; If you're looking for great New Zealand wines that are off the beaten trail, fresh, exciting and packed, Zephyr is definitely one to look out for!

Wine Review: Zephyr Pinot Gris

A single varietal white, the grapes for this wine are grown on the Glover family's estate in the Dillon's Point/Rapaura sub-region of Marlborough. The vines for this expression average at 6 years.

This is the 2023 vintage.

Tasting Notes

Aroma: Off to the races with a good amount of orchard fruit, mainly pears with just some green apple. There's immediately a noticeable honeyed chalkiness, with highlights of vanilla, coming through with a crispness. Digging further, there is an undeniable presence of unripe apples, as well as some green spices like cardamom. Toward the end, a faint salinity introduces granite in the back. Also a nutty dryness that wafts about, at times melding with the chalkiness.

Palate: Really quite nice and creamy, mainly presenting thicker vanilla cream, cool chinese pears and apples. From the mid-palate onwards it leans toward an increasingly permeating salinity, turning more savory. This then turns much cleaner toward the end. Throughout there's grape skins, some mild walnut nuttiness, and some well executed oak. Some crisp apples come through again at the end, along with baking spices that presents cloves, cardamom, and warming cinnamon toast.

Finish: That saline backbone really comes through here, bringing back granite topped with lots of pears and green apples skins. Bursts of vanilla and once again some of that paint-like chalkiness that appeared on the aromas.

My Thoughts

Quite the interesting expression! It brings forward a nice, refreshing orchard presence while still retaining those spice and mineral notes that really make the wine pop, and keeps you interested in what it has to offer next. What is perhaps the most intriguing aspect of this wine is the bold chalkiness that becomes almost paint-like. The mineral notes do not shy away from the limelight after one has enjoyed the fruit and spices, as if demanding that you take note of the provenance of the soil in which it was grown from.

Wine Review: Zephyr Sauvignon Blanc

The grapes for this expression also hail from Zephyr's Dillion Point plots. The average age of the vines is 24 years. The evolution of Zephyr’s Sauvignon Blanc over the 2022, 2023 and 2024 vintages tells a compelling story of weather and vine struggle. The 2022 vintage was a much larger harvest, requiring significant work in both the vineyard and the cellar to maintain the estate's signature concentration and bold, punchy flavors. Both the 2022 and 2023 vintages forced the family to work through tougher growing conditions, though the latter ultimately yielded beautifully refined, precise, and silkier flavors. In stark contrast, 2024 was a much warmer, smoother year with an ideal growing window that saw no weather issues from Christmas all the way through to harvest, allowing the fruit to ripen easily without the stress and struggle of the previous two years.

This is the 2022 vintage.

Tasting Notes

Aroma: A pronounced greenness, presenting green herbs, pepper, some curry leaves and fresh green/yellow capsicums. On the back of this comes some orchard fruit, primarily a white pear and crisp green pear mix. There's some apple in there, which develops to citrusy lime skins, snow peas, some lemongrass and a gentle minerality at the back, interspersed by fragrant white florals. 

Palate: Those green notes translate really well on the palate. Green mangoes and tomatoes that provide a nice umami presence. There's a creaminess with a mid-palate spice of curry leaves. That delicious saline backbone with lemongrass continues, along with sour candied lemons and gentler waves of white chinese pear and mineral springs. Also some granite, rancio and a dusting of fennel. 

Finish: A saline, ebbing finish, with those earlier baking spice and peppery spice notes coming through more so here. A little reminiscent of a marriage of green chillies, lemon zest and some lemongrass. There's also some oak, creamy vanilla and apples that come through at the end again. 

My Thoughts

Incredibly vibrant with this beautiful greenness. That being said, it remains tempered by a superb textured, complex palate. What is perhaps the most intriguing aspect of this wine is its unexpected umami presence, driven by those sweet-sour notes of green mango and tomato, which makes it stand out from your usual white.

It's linear yet exciting, and the flavors work together well with great harmoniousness, even if on the surface it might sound larger than life. That backbone of minerality and spice that lingers backstage also do an incredible job in rounding off the whole experience in a tasty way, that ultimately makes this expression really quite moreish.

Wine Review: Zephyr Sauvignon Blanc

This is the 2023 vintage.

Tasting Notes

Aroma: It opens green on the aromas here as well, presenting crisp snow peas, some wheatgrass, and those capsicums with some lime and elderflower. The greenness is honeyed and rounded, striking a more subtle tone. Right behind this initial greenness, there are some sweeter tropical fruits of honeydew and some pineapple. The spice comes through quicker here, with coriander seeds, some cardamom and white florals that linger on the edges. There is a presence of mineral smoke on the end, which soon turn flinty.

Palate: Those green and tropical notes carry over to the palate, yet remaining gentle and more understated here. There's a gentler acidity here, giving some green kiwis, gooseberries, and a lemonade-like citrus presence. It's more mineral here, with a chalky mid-palate that leads into a saline backbone which continues alongside that earlier lemongrass, fennel seed, and coriander. There's some fennel here and a resurgence of that snap pea and capsicum freshness, which leans toward flint on the end.

Finish: A remarkably long finish where the tautness really shows, edged with acidity that's more evident here. The sweeter fruit notes remain really balanced, and go one for much longer. There is a lingering impression of lime, crushed oyster shells, and a delicate touch of oak spice. Into the finish, there's a clean presence of flintiness that ultimately leaves an ebbing, bone-dry persistence. 

My Thoughts

As far as Zephyr's Sauvignon Blanc's seem to go, those lovely mineral aspects really do well to round out the wine's flavors. In this case, the 2023 vintage presents itself to you in a silkier, gentler way as opposed to the 2022's crispness and umami-ness. 

Quite nicely, this wine handles its texture really well. Despite it being more fruit-forward and less aggressive, it shuns any mid-palate thinness in favor of a gorgeous, chalky phenolic grip that anchors its sweeter fruit notes wonderfully. The mineral elements, although more subtle, also don't just act as a background player after the initial fruit rush; instead, they double down alongside a mouthwatering saline line and crushed sea shells on the finish. More linear than the 2022, yet just as beguiling!

Wine Review: Zephyr MKIII Sauvignon Blanc

While the classic Marlborough vines run north-south to catch the uniform path of the sun, the specific rows of the "Rabbit" block from where the grapes for this wine are are planted, are planted east-west. The vines usually average at around 27 years.

Here, sheep which graze in the area eat the easier-to-reach lower leaves, exposing the fruit to direct, intense sunlight. This intentional exposure naturally degrades the grapes' sharp malic acid, paving the way for a softer, creamier lactic acid profile that rounds out the palate. By manipulating the canopy and sun exposure this way, it dials up the resultant wine's textural weight, coaxing out deep mineral layers and a distinct, lingering savoriness.

Tasting Notes

Aroma: Quite funky and musky right off the bat! A completely surprising presence of jackfruits tinged with ripe durian. It possesses a gentle chalkiness that segues into some more green tropical fruit like unripe green mangoes and some papaya. There's lemon citrus that comes in bursts, too. There is a certain minerality here, presenting flint and gunpowder, along with creamy vanilla and oak. Toward the end a rather strong saline backbone becomes obvious.

Palate: That savoriness noted on the nose develops into a gentle rancio, and anchovies in olive oil. This is accompanied by flint and a little sweet fruit, too. Pineapple acidity, some of that durian again and sappy green mangoes. The back end presents more spices, such as coriander seeds, some cloves and a sprinkle of fennel. That earlier citrus note develops into a sharper streak of lime, with still some more gentle vanilla cream, oak and a bit of nuttiness. 

Finish: Satisfying salty and briny, with also more herbaceousness, specifically tarragon and fennel, and also a more subtle rancio. It turns creamy again with a gunflint presence toward the end, and spectacularly umami in an olive and anchovy brine mixture.

My Thoughts

An incredible experience that really does offer something exceptionally different. That muskiness is nevertheless presented with an approachability that segues quite nicely into the mineral and tropical fruit aspects of the wine. That subsequent addition of all those savory aspects that just keeps on going also goes a long way to making this quite a favorite. Again, wonderfully balanced despite so many big, punchy flavors all coalescing together.

Wine Review: Zephyr Pinot Noir

Zephyr's Pinot Noir varietals hail from from the Yarrum Vineyard nestled in the sheltered north facing Southern Valleys of the Wairau Plains, although they do buy fruit from the Rawhiri vineyard which lie on southern clays.

This is the 2023 vintage.

Tasting Notes

Aroma: Impeccably perfumed right away! A vibrant burst of bright red fruits with some dark red fruits in the mix. Cranberries, raspberries, some strawberries and dark red cherries all in here. There is also a dark-ish floral presence of potpourri with a majority of dried roses. This also possesses a bit of flint that unfolds to reveal a softer floral layer of wild violets, conifer, and a touch of fresh ginger. There's an aromatic sweet spice that comes in waves, too, hinting at cinnamon, some cardamom and a trace of aniseed. At the back, subtle, savory undercurrent of dried herbs, cedar, leather and just a flash of rancio. 

Palate: A really lively continuance from its aromas. A dark pepper segue leads to that bright red-fruited energy that was also on its aromas, but this time it develops into a juicy, crystalline core of ripe raspberries, plum, and cherry syrup. This is accompanied by good acidity and a fair amount of warming spices like sumac, white pepper, and coriander. The back end becomes a little more structured, revealing olives, grippy skin tannins with a touch of black tea on the edge, and just some nutty bitterness. That earlier spice note then rounds out with a softer touch of vanilla cream and oak.

Finish: Somewhat long and increasingly taut. It becomes more tannic with a real grip and savoriness toward the end. A backbone of red fruit persists, now with a bit of darker notes like leather, dark chocolate and some oak thrown into the mix. Just a fleck of light soy sauce, another touch of those tannins and some red fruit preserves. 

My Thoughts

What a serious presence! This was incredibly enjoyable, striking a good balance and also contrast between those brighter and darker flavors. It's at once forward and commanding, yet never over the top, striking the perfect tonal pitch. Really quite an ideal example of a New World, 'no muss, no fuss' Pinot Noir. In particular, it's worth highlighting those lovely saline notes (perhaps another hint to its provenance) that are present in just a notable amount to keep everything satisfyingly moreish!

Wine Review: Zephyr Robbers Dog Natural Orange Wine

The "Robbers Dog" name comes from the old Australian and British colloquial phrase "off like a robber's dog", which describes leaving the scene in a rather abrupt (and perhaps necessarily so) fashion. A natural wine, it is a blend of 70% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, and some Gewurztraminer and Riesling. Co-harvested by hand, the fruit underwent 100% whole-bunch fermentation in an open-top French oak fermenter, with only the Sauvignon Blanc destemmed and layered on top "like icing on a cake." The must was hand-plunged every three days until dry, then sealed, gassed, and left on its skins for 77 days. Finally, the wine was pressed into stainless steel tanks to rest before being hand-bottled with minimal sulfites.

Tasting Notes

Aroma: It opens rather funky initially, yet fades away to reveal heaps of mangoes, blossoming to an intensely perfumed bouquet of rose water, potpourri and a full basket of tropical fruits like peaches, apricots, and some pineapples. Also some straw, honey, guavas, and fennel. Towards the back, baking spices come through, primarily some white pepper, cardamom and cloves. There is also a notable kick of light soy sauce.

Palate: An umami and fruity core of overripe mangoes and fresh peach skins, with also drops of soy sauce and gunflint. There's some rancio to this as well, with a lovely salinity on this that develops a really moreish quality. At the end there's a goat cheese edge that's paired with a shellfish brininess.

Finish: More fragrances of incense mixes in with those tropical fruits, with that potpourri of rose petals coming through once again, this time joined by forest floors, some wet oak, with a rearing of acidity and an ebbing soy sauce presence.

My Thoughts

There's no hiding from the fact that this is a big, funky wine! And whilst eclectic, it is also expressed in the most satisfying way that gives it such daring and makes for such a memorable wine. It is bold and thoroughly unapologetic, mixing in intense tropical fruit tones with nuanced salinity, florals and waves upon waves of unexpected flavors that spurs a unabashed craving for another glass. This expression will not reveal all on the first sip, and demands your attention yet rewards you for it. The best part? It does so in a way that is somehow so refreshing and approachable. Lovely!

Wine Review: Zephyr Agent Field Blend

Hand-harvested and co-fermented, the wine was left completely undisturbed on its skins for 114 days, which explains its distinct "orange peel" appearance, before being hand-bottled on November 19th, a biodynamic fruit day. It is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The fruit hails from Zephyr's Dillion Point plots, although depending on the vintage, parcels of fruit have also been blended from the Alice Mills Vineyard in Rapaura.

 

Tasting Notes

Aroma: Gentle waves of vanilla, and a soft, almost velvety, presentation of stone fruit like apricots and with nectarines and drizzles of honey. Some yellow flowers in the mix, which then makes way to gentle baking spice, particularly cinnamon. A perfumed airiness on the back end, accompanied by some salinity, flint, and a wave of grapefruit citrus skins. An undercurrent of mineral spring water macerated with tangerines that recedes to the base.

Palate: It's creamy with a rounded, even as it holds to its tannic frame. More on nectarines, apricots, and more citruses again, but now leaning toward more lemons, with also some pomelos. Baking spices and cinnamon appear with much more pepper, that after a while contributes to a sort of spiciness at the core. A little vanilla comes forth, accompanied by nuts, as well as white florals. It's broadly tart with a more defined and streaky acidity.

Finish: More dry here, with a receding waft of saline and rancio that follow through with a burst of energy. It's underscored by a mineral edge that finishes off with a citrus and spice combo. 

My Thoughts

It's refreshing, light and citrusy, straightforwardly enjoyable, that would do best on a hot summer day. That said, it's understatedly well structured with a great mix of citruses and spice that could also lend towards a more gourmet quality. It's incredibly aromatic, with a fresh acidity on the palate, carrying all of that energy into the finish. A really enjoyable wine that is a total no-brainer pour for a weekend afternoon barbeque!

The Last Word

To experience a lineup from Zephyr is, I would say, to take a deep, unapologetic dive into the rugged, wind-swept geography of Dillons Point. It might be fabled Marlborough's most prestigious address, but Glover shows no shyness nor lack of daring in tossing out the cookie-cutter playbook to deliver a performance that keeps you on your toes. If there is a single thread that ties its portfolio together, it is an absolute refusal to be boring.

In a region where it is all too easy for producers to lean into a safe, commercially uniform crowd-pleaser style, Zephyr doesn't falter from heading in the other direction when the situation calls for it. Overall, it is lovely, lovely new world winery that any wine aficionado should keep an eye on. Expressive, well balanced and moreish creations that really do give you an ideal lens into the terroir of Marlborough, and more importantly keeps you eager for their next creation.

Lok Bing Hong A budding journalist that loves experiencing new things and telling people's stories. I have 30 seconds of coherence a day. I do not decide when they come. They are not consecutive.