Taste Testing Every Delamotte Champagne From Brut To Rose, Blanc de Blancs & Vintage Blanc de Blancs

As one of the oldest and most storied Champagne houses, Delamotte continues to fly under the radar despite being the canvas for indisputably the rarest and most sought after Champagne - that is, of course, Champagne Salon. That's right, the most singular Champagne is made from the same vineyards as Delamotte's, and for that reason, Delamotte's Champagnes are sometimes cheekily nicknamed Baby Salon.

Let's get into it!

The Delamotte house.

Champagne Delamotte was first established in Reims in 1760 by François Delamotte. Delamotte was a ranked military captain and magistrate who had seen his father-in-law produce Champagnes under his own name in Aÿ, which inspired Delamotte to do the same. Consequently, Champagne Delamotte is today the fifth oldest Champagne house still active! Much to Delamotte's fortune, his sons Alexandre and Nicolas Louis were to be of great character and would each help raise up the family's Champagne house, with Alexandre consolidating the family's winemaking operations, cellars and officers into a single entity thus improving the house's efficiency, whilst Nicolas Louis would follow in his father's footsteps to find success in the military - earning himself knighthood under the Order of Malta - which would set him up as the subsequent President of the Chamber of Commerce in Reims where he would be responsible for a number of key political events, most notably the coronation of King Charles X (this became the inspiration for Rossini's Le Voyage a Reims opera), which would in turn serve as great publicity for the family's Champagnes. Nicolas Louis would also importantly take advantage of his prominence to establish export of Champagne Delamotte to key European cities, earning it early international acclaim.

The Coronation of Charles X; Reims was once the coronation venue of choice for Europe's great kings.

The Delamotte's would eventually come to partner up in 1828 with one Jean-Baptiste Lanson who was a contemporary of Nicolas Louis. Lanson had been forced into exile to Germany young, where he would commit himself to learning the wine trade before eventually returning to France as a civil servant in Reims. There he would become a highly respected public figure, eventually sharing the same title as Nicolas Louis with whom he had become friends with, which ultimately led to his joining of the Delamotte Champagne house. Thus when the second-generation Delamotte's eventually passed, it was Nicolas Louis' widow who would helm the estate together with Lanson, before eventually herself passing without a heir whilst Lanson had by then come to serve as the de facto head of the Champagne house. By 1856, Lanson would assume full control of the house, eventually pulling in a number of family members, and would thus rename it Champagne Lanson - even keeping the Malta Cross that came from Nicolas Louis Delamotte. The Delamotte name would for close to the next eight decades fall into obscurity before the famed Marie-Louise de Nonancourt, a descendent of the Lanson family, would come to its rescue.

Lucie Pereyre de Nonancourt, representing the fourth-generation of the family helming one of Champagne's most illustrious houses.

Nonancourt was not only brave, but was also a true visionary with serious conviction. Even in the midst of two World Wars and an economic depression, she was able to recognise the staggering potential of several of Champagne's great houses that had been forgotten, first with Delamotte in 1927 and then with Laurent Perrier in 1939. Both houses had hit a likely fatal roadblock with the lack of a descendent to take the helm. Nonancourt would thus acquire the respective houses and through her investment - at one point even mortgaging 1,000 cases of Champagne she had hidden in a wall - and relentless effort see to their revitalisation. She would subsequently hand the reins of Delamotte to her son, Charles, whilst her other son Bernard would take charge of Laurent Perrier. Where Charles demonstrated incredible focus, and would instil quality at Delamotte, deliberately limiting production to achieve greater consistency, as well as the rigorous building up on reserve stocks, Bernard was a formidable leader that would grow Laurent Perrier from a then small Champagne house into one of the world's most illustrious.

The famed Le Mesnil-sur-Oger.

In yet another testament to Nonancourt's foresight, she would crucially transfer Delamotte over in 1927 to Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Cote des Blancs to focus singularly on producing Chardonnay Champagnes, which would come in handy when in 1988, after decades of building up their respective houses, the two brothers Charles and Bernard would once again reunite their estates, and this time they'd put a cherry on top of the cake with the long dreamt of acquisition of Delamotte's neighbour, the Le Mesnil-sur-Oger legend, Champagne Salon. Established by Eugene Aime Salon in the early 20th century (the inaugural vintage being 1905, with the first commercial vintage being 1921), the minuscule estate was founded on Salon's deep belief that the Chardonnay from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger was of such great quality that it should be showcased as singularly as possible, thus leading to Champagne Salon's famous ethos of producing only a single cuvee in only the best vintages, featuring a single varietal from a single cru that is then from a single harvest (Champagne Salon is therefore sometimes nicknamed "111" for the three tenets of its singular focus!). What started out as a Champagne made for friends and family would eventually become the utmost prized gem of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, with its near mythical status owing to the Champagne only having been released in 45 vintages out of its 110 year run (with no more than 60,000 bottles produced per vintage)! This makes Champagne Salon amongst the least produced and therefore rarest and most sought after major Champagne label till this day!

Today, Champagne Salon runs in parallel with Champagne Delamotte, whilst the two belong to the umbrella entity that is Laurent Perrier Group (which also holds Champagne Laurent Perrier), where the estates essentially share much of their resources - Delamotte and Salon even share the same winery and winemaker.

Getting into Delamotte's vineyards which reside within the Cote des Blanc region, the house holds only about 6 hectares of vineyards, primarily within the Grand Cru parcels of Le Mesnil, Oger and Cramant, and planted entirely with Chardonnay. Where necessary, Delamotte will also purchase fruit from growers in Avize and Vertus, along with those in areas where the house already has a presence in, whilst the Pinot Noir used in the house's Brut NV and Rose are sourced from 100% Grand Cru sites in Montagne de Reims, covering Ambonnay, Bouzy and Tours-sur-Marne. Where Delamotte concentrates on growing its Chardonnay, the terroirs there are characterised by the chalky limestone that is widely understood to be ideal for Chardonnay, giving the wines structure and acidity. This is further enabled by the area's cool nights and moderate daytime temperatures. The house also actively employs the use of sustainable viticulture, with their holding of a HVE certification. Where Champagne Salon is concerned, the Chardonnay used comes from some 19 small plots and a particularly special 1-hectare Le Jardin de Salon vineyard (that's right next to the estate's winery, and was the original plot purchased by Salon himself), all within Le Mesnil-sur-Oger.

A singular focus on Chardonnay.

Winemaking at Delamotte is uniquely singular given the house's Chardonnay focus, with a stylistic preference for freshness. As Delamotte, whilst globally known, in fact remains capped in production, with just 6 hectares of its own vineyards, much attention can then be paid to what is produced, where the house only has a streamlined set of just four cuvees as its flagship - a Brut NV, Rose NV, Blanc de Blancs NV and a Vintage Blanc de Blancs - once again demonstrating Delamotte's constant ethos of keeping its work focused. Each harvest, the fruit from each parcel is pressed gently and slowly with a Willmes press, with then only particular fractions of the juice kept, paying special attention to avoid any bitterness. Vinification for all of Delamotte's Champagnes then takes place in stainless steel tanks, temperature controlled, and with full malolactic fermentation taking place (in contrast, Salon does not undergo malolactic conversion), eschewing any use of wood in the process up till this point. The wines are then held sur lattes in Delamotte's cellars for beyond the legal requirement of 15 months, typically between 35-60 months for its non-vintage line, and six years or more for its vintage Blanc de Blancs. Dosage is expectedly light, with the Champagnes all kept in the extra-brut style, with typically about 6 grams per litre. Post-disgorgement, the Champagnes are often held back for longer, staying in the cellars for between 3-5 years on the lees before release, with back vintages held for even longer.

With its Cote des Blancs emphasis, the wines from each parcel within the region is then blended in the cellars to create the final cuvee, with each plot bringing a different personality to the picture. Le Mesnil-sur-Oger is understood to be more mineral and salty, whilst Avize is more elegant and with more tension, Oger bringing more fruit, Cramant carrying silky textures and wisps of smoke, with then Chouilly giving the Champagne length, and Oiry said to offer delicate sensuality and curvature to its form. Reserve wines usage in the Delamotte cuvees are typically kept moderate at 10-15%, in order to preserve its fruit-forward and chalky mineral profile, leaning towards greater freshness.

And so with all that said, it's time to taste all of Delamotte's flagship Champagnes!

Let's go!

Champagne Review: Champagne Delamotte Brut NV

60% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier. 

Full malolactic fermentation, with then 36 months maturation on the lees.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Straw

Aroma: Bright zesty and citrusy lemons, peels and pith, that's coaxed with some doughiness to give lemon pastries layered atop cream. It's rather firm, garnished with elderflowers, jasmines and white tea, with a mineral springs undercurrent.

Taste: Medium-bodied, rich and plush that makes for a really supple, textural body, filled in with lemon pith and elderflower, with also a touch of honeyed doughiness and toasted almonds. The acidity is bright over the rounded pillowiness of the body, with also a stony quality.

Finish: It's back to the lemons, with piths and peels, backed up by cream, giving a serving of lemon meringue and custard. That stony minerality still underscores the finish. Clean and fresh, with a lingering bit of lemon custard.

My Thoughts

A really impressive Champagne that's impeccably perfumed, with this exciting and joyful zestiness, yet at the same time elegant and pastoral with those bouquets of white florals and that rustic leesy bits. It's pillowy and supple on the palate, making for an incredibly satisfying mouthfeel, with that really great richness and heft that's so idyllic and unhurried. It's got great precision too, with a really beautiful and fresh acidity, and a persistently cleanly defined minerality. It's almost as if the aromas and the flavours on the palate then coalesce into the finish, which makes for a really delightful lemon custard treat that awaits at the end. Superb!

Champagne Review: Champagne Delamotte Rose NV

12% Pinot Noir, 88% Chardonnay.

The Chardonnay comes from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize and Oger, whilst the Pinot Noir comes from Ambonnay, Bouzy and Tours-sur-Marne. The Rose spends 24 months on lees before disgorgement. 8g/L of dosage.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Salmon

Aroma: Delicate yet well defined red fruits and currants, of cherries, cranberries, pomegranate and strawberries. Swaths of cream with an overt toastiness, giving toasted almonds and shokupan crusts.

Taste: Medium-bodied here, rich and rounded body with a surprisingly gentle acidity. Strawberries and cream, topped with cranberries, as well as those toasted almonds and brioche crusts, underscored by a minerality of spring water and wet stone. It's really plush and seamless.

Finish: More of the same, with those strawberries and cream, toasted nuts and baked goods, carrying through the firm and lush, seamless finish. Wet stone stays on.

My Thoughts

A really ready-to-go sort of Rose, it's very consistent and linear, with a reliability that exceeds most Rose cuvees. Firm, precise and persistent with its energy, it keeps a constant triptych profile of strawberries and cream, toasted confectionaries and a wet stone minerality. This is delivered over a really enjoyable creaminess that rounds it all out and fits the flavours together nice and snuggly. A solid pick that has all the makings of a house pour staple.

Champagne Review: Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Brut NV

100% Chardonnay.

With only Grand Cru Chardonnay, the fruit is vinified in stainless steel tanks, with then the addition of 10% of reserve wines. It is aged for 4-5 years on the lees before disgorgement.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Straw

Aroma: Opens with lofty floury, doughiness, almond flakes, and a bouquet of citrusy white florals, jasmines, lemon blossoms and lemon balm. There's an evocative wet stone minerality belying the fragrance, with then a richer base of lemon custard. Definitely more precise here.

Taste: Medium-bodied, super lush, impeccable richness and freshness, centered by this concentrated core of lemon curd that's enveloped by a doughiness that's drizzled with honey. Bright acidity yet gentle and plush, the incredibly supple body is lifted and airy, showing superb integration.

Finish: More of that leesy doughiness, garnished with almonds and lemon pith. Seamless finish with an ongoing lushness of that lemony doughiness, cusped by a spring water minerality.

My Thoughts

Absolutely stunning! This was incredibly precise, with such finesse and clarity! It's at all times broad and lofty, with a thoroughly beguiling lushness, yet at the same time, underpinned by this high definition lemony zestiness. It's fresh and evocative, rich and also perfumed, with the leesy bits that everyone loves is offered with great generosity. The acidity too is a thing of beauty, bright yet refined and plush, the body supple and weightless, with an amazing integration. It's no slouch on length as well, unhurriedly and comfortably rendering itself with such ease and charisma, never at a loss of fidelity. It's impressively focused and straightfoward on flavour, yet total elegance on execution!

Champagne Review: Champagne Delamotte Vintage Blanc de Blancs

100% Chardonnay.

With fruit from across the Cote des Blancs, from Cramant to Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, Oger, Chouilly and Oiry, the wines from the various parcels are blended with 20% each from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize and Oger. It is disgorged in its fourth year, with 5g/L dosage. This is the 2018 vintage.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Straw

Aroma: Immediately toasty and roasty with almonds, marzipan and bread crusts. It's gentle and understated, yet evocative and charismatic, almost comforting, with this impeccable depth. Mocha even. It's backed up with a honeyed doughiness, with a touch of coffee grounds.

Taste: Medium-bodied, really plush and rich, with a persistence of that toastiness. Toasted almonds, marzipan, drizzled in quite a lot of honey, with plucks of sweet dough. It's topped with a spread of lemons, meringue and curds. The acidity here is bright yet also very fine.

Finish: Those lemon curds carry through, here joined by white florals, that combo of honey, dough and toasted almonds. Seamless finish, with lingering honey toasted nuts and lemon custard pastries.

My Thoughts

Such an interesting contrast to the Blanc de Blancs NV, where both show such a different dimension to the wine! Equally impressive and impactful, yet almost like night and day. The Vintage Blanc de Blancs is strikingly luxurious and with such a depth of decadence and refinement. It's charismatic and sophisticated with those more earthy, toasty overlays that brings out such character and elevation to the core flavour profile. It's rich and comforting, with roasted nuts, coffee, and pastries, yet stunningly never obscuring the purity of the zesty, lemony fruit. The honeyed quality in particular really brings it all together, giving it this divine, almost candied, earthy lavish. This screams sensuality and polish!

Kanpai!

@111hotpot