The Tolaini estate was established by native Tuscan Pier Luigi Tolaini, and sits in the southernmost commune of Tuscany's famed Chianti Classico region. Unlike some of its peers, Tolaini has a much shorter history, having been established in just 1998 - which is somewhat testament to Tolaini's winemaking abilities, given that today it is often associated with some of the best Tuscan wines.

Tolaini, the man, had always harboured ambitions of being a winemaker, that said, it took him 45 years to achieve a clear vision as to what he wanted to achieve with his wines - in the time in between, he had gone on to help build a major logistics company in North American - he would spend another 4 years to find his ideal plot in Castelnuovo Berardenga, and has been based there since. The terroir here sports a unique terroir of lime, clay, and large gravel stones. 

The area that Tolaini has built its vineyards were once home to the ancient Etruscans who were amongst the most prolific of civilisations and became the basis for what would become the Roman Empire. It was in this cradle of civilisation that Tolaini had found himself amongst Etruscan amphitheatres and tombs, which would eventually become his Montebello and San Giovanni vineyards. It is from the ancient Etruscan alphabet that Tolaini takes his vineyards' symbol from, which can be translated as the modern letter "T".

From there, Tolaini would combine an ancient terroir with modern technology which would become the hallmark of Tolaini's winemaking philosophy. Tolaini has built some pretty nifty state of the art cellars and vinification systems that allow for an incredibly methodical process to be carried out, where individual parcels of grapes can be fermented and stored separately, as well as configurations that allow for gravity to aid in the flavour extraction. He's also worked with highly regarded oenologists Michel Rolland and Luca D'Attoma, agronomist Andrea Paoletti, as well as has ongoing partnerships with the University of Florence's Agronomy faculty.

Some noteworthy aspects of Tolaini's processes includes high density planting whilst keeping yields low per plant, doing two green harvests to pre-select healthy fruit bunches, as well as using open-top fermenters made of French Allier oak - this has all been said to help in achieving the best quality possible.

So let's begin our exploration with the Tolaini. Hailing from the Chianti Classico region with 

Today we're trying Tolaini's Picconero, which means "Black Hill," is typically a blend showcasing Merlot and Cabernet Franc. However, the 2018 vintage stands out as a 100% Merlot expression. After meticulous selection, both in the vineyard and with an optical sorter, the grapes are aged in 100% new French oak barriques for a luxurious 24 months, followed by 12 months of bottle aging.

Their wines tend to have a bouquet of wild berries, spice, and vanilla and on the palate, dark cherry, blueberry, leather, and earthy notes.

Tolaini, Tenuta Montebello "Picconero" 2018 – Review

100% Merlot (though usually blended with Cabernet Franc), Chianti Classico, Toscana IGT Appellation, Soil: lime and clay with some gravel-sized stones.

Tasting notes

Nose: This opens with earthy notes of clay and dried tobacco leaves, underpinned by a touch of waxiness. Hints of toasted almonds and cassis mingle with a subtle plasticine aroma and magic marker accents. As it breathes, the wine reveals a core of yellow raisins, prunes, and plums, laced with warming baking spices.

Palate: It presents a medium body, balancing richness with a surprising minty freshness. Bold black fruits emerge, primarily plum and cassis, along with a distinct liquorice note. Dried herbs like bay leaf and tobacco mingle with a hint of leather and waxiness. The tannins are present, initially smooth, then building in intensity to offer a slightly grippy texture. There's a subtle mustiness, reminiscent of old books.

Finish: The earthy notes linger, with dried tobacco leaf and olives followed by a wave of drying spices. The finish then reveals a denser core of fruit jam, along with subtle sun-dried chili and clove notes.

My Thoughts

This Tolaini "Picconero" showcases a more austere style of Merlot, emphasizing earthiness and tannic structure over plush fruitiness. It takes some time in the glass for the initial waxiness to dissipate, revealing a denser core with interesting hints of mustiness and magic marker. The prominent tannins and subtle fruit offer a unique profile compared to more typical, fruit-forward Merlot expressions. The aromas of cakey clay provide a particularly intriguing dimension.

My Rating: 80/100

@CharsiuCharlie