Editor's Note: We would like to thank Jessica Fitzgerald and Tales of the Cocktail Foundation for extending the invitation to this very special night!

This isn’t my first time here, but it never ever gets old. Stepping into the grand lobby of Parkview Square to visit Atlas Bar, I’d get lost in the high arches that crown the room, always guiding the eye upwards to a grand ceiling adorned with intricate gold details. Each motif and angular stroke a tribute to Art Deco of the Roaring Twenties.

Anchoring the grandeur is a vertigo-inspiring 3-storey gin tower dominating the view. This houses the world's largest gin collection with gins dating back to the 1910s. With a keen eye you would notice inverted rails on the ceiling by the tower – an architectural relic that speaks to the venue's past life. You see, before Atlas, a wine bar occupied this space. Back then, patrons would sit back and marvel at the theatrics of female “wine angels” wire-flying around the shelves to gracefully retrieve a bottle in gravity-defying stunts. An excessive spectacle? Perhaps. Of questionable gender sensitivity? Certainly.

But today, this untouched relic seems like a self-aware nod from Atlas. The story of its whacky history parallels the humorous extravagance of the Jazz Age – rich people kept cheetahs as pets.

The splendour of Atlas Bar matches the prestige of the event I'm attending tonight: a cocktail party to celebrate the Spirited Awards' Regional Top 10 Announcements for 2023.

Hosted by New Orleans-based Tales of the Cocktail Foundation, the annual Spirited Awards recognises outstanding achievements in cocktail bartending industry. This is a high honour in the international cocktail bartending industry.

It's come to Singapore this month. We’re basically attending the Oscars celebrations of the cocktail world!

Star of the Show: Shingo Gokan and The SG Club

These are the cocktail Oscars, so there certainly are celebrities and industry luminaries here. Many well-known the bartenders, mixologists, and industry innovators revered in their own right are here. That includes David Yeung, Campari’s Brand Ambassador (who offered to read my tarot cards), the suave Arathorn Grey who heads the legendary Tippling Club’s bar (he recently shared his music-inspired menus with us), the vivacious Priyanka Blah and the talented Shelley’s team from Nutmeg & Clove. There’s also the artisanal coconut-pandan gin distiller Ashwin Sekaran who runs Singapore Distillery with his partner Carisa, an artist in her own right.

I’m probably the only face no one recognises (not that I care for it anyway, I heard that fame is a heavy burden).

Jokes aside, the main star of the night is undoubtedly Shingo Gokan from Tokyo – one of the most influential cocktail bartenders in the world.

The guy has a Wikipedia page. But to add colour to the scale of his renown, SG recently shared the limelight with Roger Federer in a Uniqlo ad campaign, entertaining Federer with a Kokuto cocktail. Yes, the 20-Grand Slam-winning Roger Federer.

SG’s renown is built on his working his way up from barback to carve out an impressive cocktail bar empire. He now owns not just 1, but 8 bars or dining venues – 3 of which frequently feature on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. His first two award-winning establishments were opened in Shanghai - Sober Company and Speak Low that offer exceptional service and inventive mixology. His most celebrated venue is The SG Club from Tokyo, a tribute to his Japanese roots, and a must-visit destination for any cocktail lover.

But I’m not really here to join the crowd of groupies and fawn over celebrities (although I do sound like I am). What’s a cocktail party without the cocktails?

Working with the talented Atlas Bar team led by Head Bartender, Yana, The SG Club brought to life the signature flavours and delightful cocktails that made them famous, right here in Singapore.

Camprese martini

Made with Campari, elderflowers, mastika, vodka, fino Sherry, watermelon, tomato, and basil.

At the entrance, guests were all offered a refreshing appetiser, the “Camprese”. Being rather slow at wordplay, I let the word "Camprese" roll around in my mind as I took my first sip, and immediately found the connection: this was a twist on the classic Italian appetiser, the Caprese salad. This cocktail, made with Campari, elderflowers, vodka, tomato, and basil, was incredibly refreshing.

It came topped with a pillowy, mozzarella-like foam that was milky and floral, with a touch of basil and a hint of acidity from tomatoes. It was indeed, remarkably akin to sipping on refreshing martini-turned-Caprese salad.

Kokuto on the Rock

Made with Johnnie Walker Black Label, Kokuto de Lequio, lemon juice, apple juice, honey and milk.

The second memorable drink was the Kokuto on the Rock. Made with Johnnie Walker and a sweet and aromatic Okinawan black sugar liqueur, apple juice and honey, this is very clean-tasting and highly addictive. Scotch whisky goes very well with the Kokuto brown sugar liqueur, making it a dangerous dessert cocktail.

I took seconds.

Whiskey Sawā

Woodford Reserve, SG Shochu MUGI (barley shochu), yuzu and egg white.

Finally, I treated myself to a Whiskey Sawā by the bar, shaked and poured by the Atlas Bar team. Crafted with Woodford Bourbon, a mugi shochu, yuzu, and egg white, this foamy delight was both creamy and citrusy, with a deceptive kick of alcohol.

Each cocktail served was met with admiration and audible appreciation as the attendees sipped on them. A testament to the skill and creativity of Atlas Bar and The SG Club. As for my personal favourite? A close call between the Camprese and the Kokuto on the Rock.

But that’s not all!

After achieving such tremendous success in bar management, it was only a matter of time before Shingo Gokan succumbed to the "spirit itch," a familiar urge among bartenders to delve into the creation of their own spirits. We see it time and time again.

In recent years, he satisfied this urge by launching the 3-variant SG Shochu in collaboration with the top shochu distillers in Japan: Sanwa Shurui for the Mugi shochu (Japanese barley), Satsuma Shuzo for the Imo shochu (sweet potato), and Takahashi Shuzo for the Kome shochu (rice).

All these are traditional "honkaku shochu," meaning they undergo a single distillation, a rarity that I, as a whisky enthusiast, can appreciate. Single-distillation creates a “less pure” alcohol, allowing more flavours from the source ingredients to shine through unobscured.

The raison d'etre for these shochus is quite telling, especially when launched by a Japanese bartender. Most honkaku shochus have a low alcohol by volume (ABV) for cocktail creation, typically around 20-30%. This makes it harder for bartenders to work with the Japanese spirit, thus relegating it to a narrower range of afficionados and Japanese grandfathers. Despite being single-distilled, The SG Shochus come in at an amped-up 38% ABV, solving the issue and providing bartenders with a more potent spirit to work with.

Lucky for us spirit geeks, SG's team gave us the opportunity to taste all three variants of The SG Shochu by themselves.

The SG Shochu Imo (Sweet Potato) – 38% ABV

I elected to start with the imo shochu, made from Japanese sweet potatoes. This is the OG traditional style of shochu, and usually the most complex-tasting type.

The aroma was clean and potent, bringing to mind sweet brown sugar, a hint of vegetation, and the scent of fermented, caramelised baked sweet potato. There was also a trace of grassiness and a very slight sulphur note reminiscent of eggs.

On the palate, it presented a punchy spiciness accompanied by light notes of red fruits. It was grassy and vegetal, with a light vegetal bitterness mid-taste.

The finish was gently warming, lasting, and filled with notes of dill herbs and spice.

Conclusion: This was a powerfully expressive version of Satsuma Shiranami shochu, with amplified notes reflecting the roasty sweet potato character and a luscious, herbaceous sweetness. Even savoured on its own, the complexity was thoroughly enjoyable.

The SG Shochu Kome (Rice) – 40% ABV

Next, I tried the kome shochu, made from rice.

The aroma was clean, bright, and crisp, bearing a resemblance to rice sake or "bready" Prosecco wines. I detected notes of green grapes and melon, along with an effervescent tartness.

The palate was clean, bright, and syrupy, reminding me of a light sake with subtle pear notes.

The finish was short, sweet, and lightly yeasty.

Conclusion: As expected, this tasted and smelled like a distilled sake. This isn’t very complex, but is quite accessible. Tasted neat, this seems to me like the most straightforward and accessible line from the SG Shochu range.

With it’s high level of sweetness, I’m certain this would make a pleasing highball that balances out the syrupy notes with a light spritz.

The SG Shochu – Mugi (Barley) – 40% ABV

Finally, I sampled the mugi shochu, made with Japanese barley. Unlike the previous two which were colourless, this one had a light straw colour, indicating some time spent ageing in an oak cask.

The aroma was bright and lively, reminiscent of an unpeated Scotch whisky with a touch of vanilla, magnolias, Irish whisky spice, cinnamon, and menthol.

On the palate, it had the brightness of an unpeated Caol Ila, with light maltiness and vanilla notes, and a considerable spiciness that developed into a slight bitterness of dark chocolate.

The finish was moderately long, with hints of a toasty, bready character and light mineral notes.

Conclusion: This barley spirit is layered and complex, though its heat made me question whether drinking it neat was the right approach. This is, after all, created for mixology!

Perhaps my palate is too accustomed to Scotch or Japanese whisky, and I expect a heavier touch of oak or vanilla. Nonetheless, this shochu's layered complexity would also make for a superb and nuanced highball.

Overall, each the above 3 shochus have very distinct flavour profiles and complexities. Tasted neat, my preference lies with the 38% ABV Imo shochu for its complexity and nostalgic aroma of caramelised Japanese sweet potato. But I’ll be the first to admit that this is a highly subjective verdict. Some others who were with me seemed to prefer the Kome shochu for hits sweetness and sake-like character. It’s different strokes for different folks.

I find the Mugi moderately enjoyable, but couldn’t shake off the (unfair) mental comparison with single malt that had been aged for a longer period of time. And because the Japanese have many ways of drinking spirits – whether as a highball (soda water), mizuwari (with water) or oyuwari (hot water), I might have to revisit this spirit with some soda water to have a clearer opinion about it.

A Sweet Surprise: Kokuto de Lequio Okinawan Brown Sugar Liqueur (Read detailed review here)

For our grand finale, we got to taste SG’s very newly-launched Kokuto de Lequio, an Okinawan brown sugar liqueur.

This is dark syrupy concoction is made by blending Okinawan black sugar, known as kokuto, with Ryukyu Awamori – a unique, traditional spirit derived from rice and kuro koji (black mold), and a small hit of rum incorporated to enhance depth of flavour.

On the nose, this is a full-bodied aroma of molasses, licorice, layered with a comforting, earthy herbality reminiscent of Nin Jiom Pei Pa Koa cough syrup.

On the palate, an exquisite tapestry of thick unfolding flavours: this is creamy, thick, syrupy but not too sweet, with a depth of dark soy sauce and a subtle hazelnut undertone.

The finish is long and lingering with sweetness melding into licorice ,tobacco and a whisper of menthol.

Conclusion: It is clear that this would shine in the context of a cocktail. Heck, this could stand alone as a dessert drink or poured over some vanilla ice cream. The SG Club bartender who offered us the liqueur suggested that this would pair wonderfully with a simple glass of milk. Clearly a versatile and highly appealing artisanal liqueur that would probably find a place in many bartenders’ mise en place without the starpower of The SG Club.

Reflections on a Night of Tipples and Talent

This cocktail event at the Spirited Awards at Atlas Bar wasn’t just a costume party of glamour and gastronomy. It was a celebration of the cocktail and drinks industry's most talented individuals – many of whom have gone very far with their creativity, shared passion for drinks and sheer hard work. The atmosphere was as intoxicating as the drinks being served.

You could see the camaraderie that exists within the Singapore and regional drinks scene. There was an overwhelming sense of mutual support, a shared understanding of the challenges faced, and a collective celebration of each other's achievements.

Events like the Spirited Awards are integral to the cocktail industry. They provide an essential platform for recognising talent, celebrating excellence and encouraging a sense of community. It raises the bar (quite literally) for what is possible in the world of mixology.

Without further ado, we wish to congratulate the honoured personalities and establishments for the APAC region in 2023:–

Best International Bar Team – Asia Pacific (APAC)

• Above Board — Melbourne, Australia
• ATLAS — Singapore
• COA — Hong Kong, China
• DarkSide at Rosewood Hong Kong — Hong Kong, China
• Jigger & Pony at the Amara Hotel — Singapore
• Manhattan Bar at the Conrad Singapore Orchard — Singapore
• PS40 — Sydney, Australia
• Republic at The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia — Singapore
• Stay Gold Flamingo — Singapore
• The Baxter Inn — Sydney, Australia
• Tropic City — Bangkok, Thailand

Best International Cocktail Bar – Asia Pacific (APAC)

• Above Board — Melbourne, Australia
• Bar TRENCH — Tokyo, Japan
• BYRDI — Melbourne, Australia
• COA — Hong Kong, China
• Live Twice — Singapore
• MAYBE SAMMY — Sydney, Australia
• Nutmeg & Clove — Singapore
• RE — Sydney, Australia
• Sago House — Singapore
• Southside Parlor — Seoul, South Korea 

Best International Hotel Bar – Asia Pacific (APAC)

• Akademi at the Katamama hotel — Bali, Indonesia
• ARGO at the Four Seasons — Hong Kong, China
• BKK Social Club at Four Seasons Bangkok — Bangkok, Thailand
• Charles H. at the Four Seasons Hotel — Seoul, South Korea
• DarkSide at Rosewood Hong Kong — Hong Kong, China
• Dean & Nancy on 22 at the A by Adina hotel — Sydney, Australia
• Jigger & Pony at the Amara Hotel — Singapore
• Origin Bar at the Shangri-La Hotel — Singapore
• Republic at The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia — Singapore
• VIRTÙ at the Four Seasons Tokyo Otemachi — Tokyo, Japan
• Writers Bar at the Raffles Hotel — Singapore

Best International Restaurant Bar – Asia Pacific (APAC)

• Alba Bar & Deli — Brisbane, Australia
• Analogue Initiative — Singapore
• Bar Torino — Adelaide, Australia
• Bombay Canteen — Mumbai, India
• Caffe Fernet — Singapore
• Continental Deli Bar Bistro — Sydney, Australia
• INDULGE Bistro x Spirit of Hven — Taipei, Taiwan
• Loewy — Jakarta, Indonesia
• No Sleep Club — Singapore
• Restaurant Hubert — Sydney, Australia

Best New International Cocktail Bar – Asia Pacific (APAC)

• Bar Planet — Sydney, Australia
• Caretaker’s Cottage — Melbourne, Australia
• Gold Bar at EDITION — Tokyo, Japan
• Hickson House — Sydney, Australia
• Last Word — Singapore
• Mahaniyom — Bangkok, Thailand
• Night Hawk — Singapore
• One or Two — Melbourne, Australia
• Penrose — Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
• Thirsty Shaker — Hong Kong, China

Kanpai and cheers to the talented, inspiring and hardworking people behind many of our favourite bars!

@CharsiuCharlie